Gourmet

Brik The old joke is that brik turns into a brick if the pastry (in Tunisia, malsuqa) is not thin enough. We found spring-roll wrappers had just what the dish required — they are delicate but sturdy enough for the eggy stuffing.

You can barely take a step in the markets of Marrakech without tripping over fresh mint, or at least without being offered a glass of hot, sweet mint tea.

Ruggiero was served rose-scented candied peanuts and mint tea on the rooftop of the home of a Toubkal local. It turned out to be one of the best-tasting snacks she'd ever had.

Dried fruits and nuts are common in Moroccan pastries, but this tart is something special — the richness of the dough and the pop of the sesame seeds bring out that honeyed quality you normally associate with fresh figs. The cardamom cream is whisper-light, and the fresh orange segments are refreshingly cool.

In this confit, called tfaya, all the ingredients blend together, taking on a melting softness as well as the distinct notes of honey. Added to savory dishes like the couscous or even the lamb, it provides an unexpected brightness along with the sweetness.

This vegetarian showstopper will bowl you over with its layers of flavor — one bite is enough to understand why it's often called one of the world's great dishes. Barley couscous, lighter and more aromatic than the well-known semolina version, serves as a nutty, fluffy base; tender-firm vegetables and a fragrant, golden broth are ladled over; and crunchy fried almonds and sweet onion confit add even more texture and flavor to the beguiling complexity.

It's worth doctoring the harissa you buy in a tube or can, which we consider more of a base than a finished product. The result here, used as a condiment for the couscous and a marinade for the lamb, is definitely more intense, and a little goes a long way.

On Moroccan tables, in addition to salt and pepper, you'll find a pinch pot of ground cumin. Sprinkling a little on cooked meat makes it taste somehow meatier and juicier.

Though you can certainly buy preserved lemons, we prefer the rich, clean taste of homemade. This technique, adapted from Paula Wolfert's, brings a multidimensional freshness and a wonderfully distinct pungency to the lemons, which are as much a revelation in salads, soups, or even cocktails as they are alongside the grilled fish. There's no need to rinse them first, but do discard the pulp — only the rind is eaten with the grilled sardines.

At the thought of Morocco, the mind tends to wander to the teeming heart of Marrakech; but the windswept coastal city of Essaouira, with its whitewashed buildings and heaping displays of glimmering fish (which you can have grilled on the spot), offers another sort of paradise. We can't supply Essaouira's particular perfume of sea and smoke, but the simplicity and clean flavors of this lemon-infused dish will take you there in spirit.

The ubiquity of pomegranates in Morocco inspired food editor Maggie Ruggiero to add one nontraditional ingredient — pomegranate juice — to this very traditional meze; its tartness turns up the volume on all the flavors, and its color lends a beautiful mahogany sheen.

Once a favorite breakfast of the Chinese, this dish might more accurately be called a daikon scramble. But the Chinese words for carrot and daikon are almost the same, and "cake" refers to the way the rice flour binds the ingredients.

Scallops halved horizontally cook fast and make a meaty, substantial meal — especially when accompanied by this rich white-wine sauce studded with peas and chopped chives.

Who needs takeout? You can make tender sirloin beef tips and broccoli in a velvety soy glaze just as fast yourself.

Contrasting textures — crunchy salad and creamy chickpeas spread over freshly grilled pita — make this vegetarian meal something truly special.