Gratin

Anne Macrae is a Scottish neighbor in Provence who shares my love of simple, big tastes. She served this luscious gratin one spring evening and explained that she devised the recipe when she and her husband, John, lived in an isolated part of northern Provence, in the Drôme. There were no fresh-produce markets nearby, but thanks to neighboring farmers she always had plenty of fresh goat's milk cheese—known as tomme. Her larder was always filled with the meaty black olives from nearby Nyons, and wild herbs were as near as the back door. In summer months Anne prepares the sizzling, fragrant first course with fresh tomatoes, and in the winter months she uses canned tomatoes. That evening she served the gratin in the individual gratin dishes, but I suggested it might be easier to make one huge gratin and pass it around. "I used to do that," she countered, "but people got greedy and never left enough for the other guests!" So controlled portions it is! This dish lends itself to endless variations: Think of it simply as a pizza without the crust. Add julienned bits of proscuitto, a bit of cooked sausage, sautéed mushrooms, or marinated artichokes. It's also a convenient dish when you're alone and want something warm and quick. I always add fresh hyssop, for the Provençal herb's pungent, mintlike flavor blends well with the tomato-cheese-olive trinity.

This recipe originally accompanied Poached Halibut with Black Truffles and Purple-Potato and Crab Gratin .

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This recipe is based on a delicious dish made by Laura DaMiano, a Quebecois chef. She loves the flavor of butternut squash paired with Oka cheese, a mild, semisoft cow's-milk cheese. Mild Cheddar can be used as a substitute. If you are making this entire menu in a single oven, and you are not making the scalloped squash ahead, you can bake the squash while the ham is standing after braising.

Finnan Haddie Gratin Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 2 1/4 hr

This recipe calls for a standard glass baking dish, but any oven-to-table dish can be used.

Try this side with trout or lamb chops, then apple upside-down cake.

The blend of dried herbs known as herbes de Provence usually consists of basil, thyme, rosemary and oregano. Sometimes lavender is also included, which adds a flavor that is the most evocative of Provence. An accompaniment to Herb-and Spice-roasted Beef Tenderloin with Red Wine-Shallot Sauce . Sharpen your chopping and mincing skills with our technique video.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The primary difference between this kugel recipe and the traditional is its use of dairy, which would make it inappropriate at a meal with meat on the menu for those who observe kosher dietary laws.