Simmer

Cholar Dal This dal, a sweet version served at festive occasions, is the best we've ever tasted.

The bright, tender fruit of Fuyu persimmons mellows the intensity of cranberries while lending this sauce a beautiful jewel-like hue. Using Fuyus, which can be eaten hard or soft, removes the guesswork of finding ripe fruit.

This sauce, a mix of everyday and exotic, provides a sweet and tart contrast to rich meat or poultry.

It's hard to improve upon the honest goodness of mashed potatoes, but here scallions and brown butter do the trick. The scallions provide sweetness, and the brown butter adds a beguiling nuttiness.

A touch of cream transforms this dish into a sumptuous side that exposes the luxurious character of this often homely vegetable.

Despite the fact that they require few ingredients and little effort, these beans always get raves.

We liked turkey best in this easy one-dish meal, but if removing tendons from the drumsticks seems too laborious, substitute 1 1/2 pounds of smoked ham steak. Trim the steak, discarding any bone, then cut into 1-inch pieces.

his delicious vegetarian soup is a take on the Persian dish ash-e reshteh.

We love the homey quality and clean flavors of this colorful soup.

This quick dish has all the deep, exciting flavors of Southeast Asia. The curry paste already has lemongrass in it, so don't worry if you can't find fresh: It will still be delicious without it.

The hearty greens in this dish retain a bit of their pleasing crunch.

Moules à la Marinière This preparation has a few variations: with or without white wine; with or without lemon; and with a different liaison. Only the shallot, a characteristic element of the "marinière," always remains. Of the different recipes for the marinière, we give the simplest, which is also the best. In this, the sauce is bound with bread crumbs. If you prefer a liaison with beurre manié, you should replace the bread crumbs with 10 grams of flour (1/3 ounce) worked with 20 grams (2/3 ounce, 1 heaping tablespoon) of butter.

Most chestnut soups are fairly substantial. We've made our version lighter and brothier to serve as a first course for a big meal. Chopped chestnuts mixed with tangy croutons add texture and extra layers of complexity.

A few fresh vegetables and a leftover turkey is all you'll need to create this phenomenal soup — perfect for cold nights and holiday nostalgia.

Judi Kerr of Mendham, New Jersey, writes: "I'm a professional chocolate taster. I know it sounds like a dream job, but I get so much chocolate at work that I tend to avoid sweets when I'm at home. At the end of most days, I actually look forward to cooking dinner and making something hearty, like my chicken and white bean chili."

The syrup is also used to coat the apple wedges and grapes that garnish each plate.

This dish, typical of West Africa, is traditionally accompanied by foo-foo (a porridgelike side dish made from corn, sweet potato, plantain, or cassava meal). We strongly recommend serving the stew with rice to sop up the delicious sauce.

Fresh muscats are somewhat difficult to find, but they're worth seeking out for their musky flavor. what to drink: A smooth white. Try: La Crema 2003 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($24). The chicken paillards would also be wonderful paired with Robert Sinskey Vineyards 2004 Los Carneros Pinot Blanc, Napa ($18).