Cookbooks

This delicate torta makes a lovely luncheon dish. Served with our Warm Bean, Snap Pea, and Tomato Salad (page 173), it is perfect for a springtime supper. To drain the ricotta cheese, place it in a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth, and set the sieve over a deep bowl; let stand at least 1 hour at room temperature.

Drain the noodles well before coating with sauce.

Look for precooked polenta logs in the refrigerated section of your grocery store. If using fresh plum tomatoes, peel them by scoring an X in the bottom with a paring knife and plunging them into boiling water for several seconds; transfer to an ice-water bath, and let cool. Slip off and discard the peels and seeds.

If you can’t find this squash, use butternut.

Tamari soy sauce is similar to regular soy sauce but is slightly thicker and has a richer flavor. It is available at most grocery stores. Besides being the perfect condiment for the tofu, this sauce makes a nice addition to the soba noodles—just drizzle a little bit on top.

Grocery stores often carry several kinds of tofu, so be sure to buy the firm variety for this dish. Pressing the tofu removes excess water and allows it to soak up the peppery marinade.

You can substitute Chinese broccoli with broccolini or dark, leafy greens such as kale, turnip, or mustard greens. Before marinating the tofu, press it as described in step 1 to remove excess moisture.

Look for fresh lemongrass in Asian markets and some supermarkets.