Make Ahead

Try serving the jam with goat cheese, pistachios, and m&âche.

Serve this hearty entrée with boiled potatoes and steamed carrots.

You'll have enough tomato spread for leftovers.

These deep-fried rice balls hail from Sicily. Arancine are often made with leftover risotto, but this recipe calls for freshly made risotto. A piece of cheese is tucked into the rice mixture, then the rice balls are breaded and fried until golden.

This treat is a holiday or wedding dessert, but delicious any time. It is a dense sponge cake soaked in syrup.

Especially in northern Turkey where the climate approximates northern coastal United States, pumpkins and pumpkin-like sweet winter squash are grown. Hazelnuts are also grown there, along the Black Sea. They combine well in this dessert.

This helva tastes different and better than the store bought variety. It is usually served during religious holidays.

In Ethiopia, the preparation of berbere takes days—chilies are dried in the sun for three days, then ground in a mortar and pestle, mixed with ground spices, and set in the sun to dry again—and it is usually made in huge amounts. Each Ethiopian family has its own recipe for this universal seasoning, with varying degrees of heat and spiciness. Traditionally, berbere is used to flavor Ethiopian stews, but I also like to use it as a rub for beef and lamb.

The mixture known as nit'ir qibe, which begins with clarified butter, is kept handy in most Ethiopian kitchens to add flavor to meat and vegetable stews. In fact, virtually no meal in Ethiopia is made without nit'ir qibe, which gives the cooking its beautifully layered signature flavors. It also has a much longer shelf life than regular butter—an important consideration in poor man's cooking, where waste is not an option. The butter will solidify when chilled, but it will become liquid again when left at room temperature.

Crisp, fragile, practically see-through—no, the subject here isn't a character out of The Devil Wears Prada, but something just as, well, delicious: quite possibly the world's best cheese wafers. Best of all, they couldn't be any simpler to make.

A semifreddo is an Italian soft-frozen custard mousse. Grappa, which is floral and just a little edgy, bumps the musky, intoxicating sweetness of the melon up a notch.

Everyone's free to be a kid again with one of these wickedly good frozen treats in hand. Chewy blondie cookies bookend a thick layer of lemony ice cream (store-bought vanilla bumped up with lemon juice and zest) ribboned with a speedy blueberry compote.

It might seem odd to describe something cold—ice cream—as sultry, but there is no denying genuine come-hither appeal. Based on a traditional candy from Brittany (and a favorite flavor pairing among French and American chefs), the combination of salty and sweet exerts an almost primordial pull, and cream, milk, and eggs provide lush, luxurious texture.

The satiny hazelnut-flavored chocolate called gianduia—named for the masked character Gianduia of the centuries-old Italian commedia dell'arte—makes for a gelato that is suave and intense.

Using beefsteak or other juicy tomatoes makes for a light, delicately nuanced soup that works in hot weather. Plum tomatoes will result in a more intensely flavored soup that's good for the chilly fall months. It's impossible to play favorites: They're both wonderful.

What's integral here is a very thin biscuit crust instead of one made of pastry dough. The inspiration is twofold: the tomato pie brought to us in August 1992 by the late novelist and food writer Laurie Colwin and James Beard's recipe for a quiche-like tomato cheese pie, which appeared in his American Cookery (1972). It's fun to imagine inviting the pair of them for lunch and serving this, along with a crunchy green salad and a big, beautiful glass pitcher of iced tea.