Side

"Green peas were considered a great delicacy," says Edna Lewis in The Taste of Country Cooking. "If our peas ripened first, they were shared with the neighbors and vice versa." Since garden-fresh peas have become practically impossible to find, we rely on frozen peas for this classic combination. Serve it, as Miss Lewis would, with skillet-cooked chicken and biscuits on an evening in late spring.

If you read Edna Lewis's cookbooks, you will come to understand that southerners do not boil their vegetables to death. They cook them until they are perfectly, magnificently tender—and there's a big difference. Try this versatile side and see: It's absurdly easy and full of deep, sweet flavor.

Here, radicchio is paired with another member of the chicory family: frisée. With Sherry vinegar, feta, oranges, and Kalamatas, this salad has great Mediterranean flavor.

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from Rick Tramonto's book Fantastico! This is the ultimate vehicle for any number of toppings. The quality of the bread, as well as the olive oil, makes all the difference, so make sure the crust is crisp and the middle is soft and chewy. Buy it fresh from a good bakery. This is an example of two ingredients making the difference between good and truly great. Enjoy the ride!

We'll admit it—we all love a wedge of iceberg with blue-cheese dressing. So there's no need to apologize for serving this beautiful plate of sweet lettuce, slices of good Stilton, and toasted walnuts, along with an excellent vinaigrette that brings out the best in all of them.

Creamed spinach often gets a dash of nutmeg. With the rest of this meal, you'll be happy to have a lighter (meaning creamless), more basic sautéed spinach, but the nutmeg remains, for a sense of something special.

Going beyond the customary side dishes for beef (mushrooms and a gratin), we've combined all the luxurious flavor of wild mushrooms sautéed in cream with good buttered toast for these single-serving puddings, giving every guest a perfect mix of crisp, golden surface and warm, melting interior.

The zing of fresh lemon enhances both the peas' sweetness and the natural flavor of the spinach. The whole quick, creamy dish is bolstered by soft pillows of potato gnocchi.

The carrots' natural sweetness plays off the tang of the mustard. This effortless dish pairs particularly well with the rosemary pork chop.

Thanks to Simon and Garfunkel, the fresh herbs in this dish are forever linked. But the folk duo probably never knew how good they are on top of al dente bucatini, a thicker-than-spaghetti hollow noodle.

Golden-brown scallops are gorgeous when framed by a bright pea purée. An infusion of curry and lime juice invigorates this dish.

Because broccoli thrives in cooler weather, this is a terrific winter variation on the classic green beans almondine.

Bulgur is an earthy, nutty grain that becomes fluffy once cooked. It's an ideal canvas for aromatic and sweet flavors.

These sweet ribbons are the perfect way to turn carrot cupcakes into edible presents.

It's no secret that kids go crazy for crisp, fried potatoes. Serve them these classic latkes and you'll be giving them exactly what they want.

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from Anne Willan's book The Country Cooking of France. La Truffade If you can't afford truffles, you indulge in Truffade, say the inhabitants of the Auvergne, notoriously among the coldest and most rugged areas of France. Often served with sausages, Truffade is a potato cake flavored with bacon and laden with cheese, a buttress against the worst weather. Nippy Cantal is the local hard cheese, and Gruyère may be substituted.

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from Jean Anderson's book A Love Affair with Southern Cooking. Pickled oysters are a cocktail favorite wherever oysters are fresh, plump, and flavorful, meaning most of the South. The hostesses I know like to mound them in small crystal bowls, top them off with a little of the pickling liquid, and pass with toothpicks so that guests can "go spearfishing." Though the red serranos add color, I suggest sprigging the bowl with fresh dill umbels or sprigs of Italian parsley. Come to think of it, small fennel umbels would also be attractive and appropriate. Note: Because cooking clouds the oyster liquid, I pour it through a coffee filter–-lined sieve directly onto the oysters and spices. Makes for a prettier presentation at serving time.

Make this side dish a day or two ahead. On Thanksgiving, reheat it in the oven or microwave.

Kristine Subido, chef at Wave in Chicago, makes you forget about pasta.