Side
Ginger Slaw
The slaw should be chilled at least 4 hours before serving. Ginger can be sliced thinly and chopped in a mini-chopper.
By Sheila Lukins
Zuni Ricotta Gnocchi
This recipe, based on Elizabeth David's GNOCCHI DI RICOTTA in her book Italian Food, has become one of our most-often-requested house formulas. Requiring fresh, curdy ricotta, it yields succulent, tender dumplings that always beguile. But since fresh ricotta varies in texture, flavor, and moisture content, depending on the season, what the animals are eating, who is making it, and how long they drain it, we often need to tinker with the recipe, adding more Parmigiano-Reggiano for flavor, or butter for richness. If the cheese is particularly wet, we add a little more egg, or we hang it overnight in cheesecloth, refrigerated (or we do both). Very wet ricotta can weep 1/2 cup liquid per pound. Don't substitute machine-packed supermarket ricotta; flavor issues notwithstanding, mechanical packing churns and homogenizes the curds and water—you'll have trouble getting enough water back out. Tender fresh sheep's milk ricotta, if you can get it, makes delicious gnocchi and is worth the extra expense.
Having offered ricotta gnocchi four or five evenings per week for more than a decade, we have a large repertory of accompaniments for, and variations on, this dish. We sometimes add freshly grated nutmeg, chopped lemon zest, or chopped sage stewed in butter to the batter before forming the gnocchi. Or we form thumbnail-sized gnocchi and poach them in chicken broth for a delicate soup course. One of the nicest variations is to fold flecks of barely cooked spinach into the batter. These Spinach and Ricotta Gnocchi recall the Florentine mainstay, variously called ravioli verdi ("green ravioli"), ignudi ("naked" ravioli), or malfatti ("poorly fashioned," which they needn't be), and are sublime.
Although these gnocchi are delicious and delicate enough to serve with just a cloak of melted butter, I list my favorite seasonal accompaniments at the end of the recipe to provoke you to think of serving ricotta gnocchi often, and year-round.
Wine: Chehalem Willamette Valley Pinot Gris, 2000
By Judy Rodgers
Whole-Wheat Oatmeal Pancakes
By Andrea Albin
Rice Waffles
By Andrea Albin
Big Green Salad
Something green and crisp is in order, and this simple salad is just the thing. A tangy from-scratch honey-mustard dressing will make salad eaters out of even the youngest at the table.
By Ian Knauer
Carrots and Brussels Sprouts
Who knew? These two humble winter staples actually have a natural affinity, playing off each other's best qualities.
By Ian Knauer
Scalloped Potatoes
There's no question: If meatloaf, then potatoes. These have all the comfort of mashed, but with a nice texture from the potato slices and from being baked in cream. And they can go in the oven along with the meatloaf, so dinner will be ready all at once.
By Ian Knauer
Mary Hearty Bye's Scottish Scones
Perfectly textured inside and out, these scones truly are the real deal. Just a touch of butter or your favorite jam is all the embellishment they need.
Swiss Chard with Raisins and Almonds
Toasted almonds contrast beautifully with sweet, tender raisins and earthy chard.
By Ruth Cousineau
Pancetta- and Sesame-Coated Turnips
Crunchy, salty, and fried. Who knew turnips could taste this good? These can be fun appetizers or the perfect side for sesame-oil-seared black cod with a rice-vinegar soy glaze.
By Dan Barber
Creamy Rice with Parsnip Purée and Root Vegetables
In this soupy, risotto-like side dish or starter, pureed parsnips and blanched carrots, parsnips, and turnips are stirred into cooked basmati rice. The parsnip puree adds luxurious richness without any cream, butter, or cheese. Serve alongside pan-grilled steaks or pork chops.
By Dan Barber
Salt-Crusted Beets with Horseradish Crème Fraîche
Here's a great new way to roast beets: in a salt crust. The horseradish, thyme, and orange in the crust infuse the beets with bright flavor as they're cooking. Leftover beets make a great addition to salads. Lightly coat torn butter lettuce with a Sherry wine vinaigrette, top with the sliced beets and some sliced red onion, and drizzle with a bit of the horseradish crème fraîche.
By Dan Barber
Cauliflower Steaks with Cauliflower Purée
Few ingredients, big payoff: Large "steaks" are cut from a head of cauliflower, sautéed until golden, then baked until tender. They're served over a simple purée made from the cauliflower florets. An impressive first course, this can also be a lovely side. Just sear two mahi-mahi fillets in butter and place them alongside the cauliflower.
By Dan Barber
Sauteed Brussels Sprouts with Lemon and Pistachios
A dish to convert all the Brussels sprout haters. By cooking the sprouts only briefly, you preserve their great nutty flavor. This side pairs nicely with roasted rack of lamb or whole chicken. For a Middle Eastern-flavored meal, rub either meat with olive oil, salt, pepper, cumin, paprika, and cayenne pepper before cooking.
By Dan Barber
Chunky Jerusalem Artichoke and Potato Mash
Jerusalem artichokes (also known as sunchokes) are neither artichokes nor from Jerusalem, but rather the tuber of a variety of sunflower native to America. The knobby, gnarly vegetable is often overlooked, but its sweet, nutty flavor makes it worth seeking out.
By Deborah Madison
Sauteed Kale with Smoked Paprika
Any variety of kale will work in this recipe. If available, try ruffled Red Russian kale, Tuscan kale, or Salad Savoy.
By Deborah Madison
Fennel and Turnip Crudites with Fennel Salt
You don't often see turnips served raw, but they're crisp, sweet, and surprisingly tasty. At the market, look for small fennel bulbs and small turnips. They'll be tender and have a mild flavor.
By Deborah Madison
Stir-Fried Broccolini, Vietnamese Style
Serve this classic and satisfying stir-fry over brown rice.
By Mark Bittman
Roasted Broccoli with Raisin Vinaigrette
The tangy-sweet vinaigrette brings out broccoli's deep flavor in the best way.
By Mark Bittman