Gratin

This can be completely assembled up to eight hours ahead, and then it requires only a short time in the oven.

A gratin is the golden, epicurean crust that forms on the surface of savory baked or broiled dishes. Pungent Gruyère makes a genial topping that acts as a protective layer, preventing the potatoes from drying out.

Most vegetable gratins need to be bound with a white sauce. This is not true of gratins made from starchy vegetables, which will release enough starch to thicken the liquid around them. Here the sweet potatoes are baked first to concentrate their sweetness and then cooked a second time with just enough cream to mellow them out. This dish is an ideal accompaniment to roast poultry or pork.

In France puréed potatoes are mixed with a local cow's-milk cheese known as Tomme Fraîche de Cantal. We've substituted fresh mozzarella — widely available in the States — to give the dish a similar consistency.

Here's proof that an elegant dessert does not have to take hours to make. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This not-too-sweet potato dish is reminiscent of tzimmes, a traditional sweet potato, carrot and short rib stew. Using a four-millimeter slicing blade in processor makes the preparation a snap.

Serve this with roast lamb or chicken. Market tip: Let the greens (if attached) be your guide to freshness when selecting turnips. Make sure they are bright green and fresh-looking.