Simmer

Porrusalda, or leek soup in Basque, is a very traditional dish. It includes pumpkins, an interesting component in a soup composed of both Old World (carrots, leeks) and New World (potatoes, pumpkin) ingredients.

This is a poetic version of the traditional Chinese almond milk gelatin dessert. Whipping the milk gives the top layer of this dessert the appearance of snow. Fat-free (skim) milk will create the most foam.

Active time: 2 hr Start to finish: 3 1/2 hr (includes making stock)

Gins that emphasize fruit botanicals, such as Tanqueray No. Ten, work best with this recipe. Active time: 25 minutes Start to finish: 1 day

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Round out this French-style meal with rice and steamed asparagus; polish things off with raspberry tarts from the bakery.

Here's a great main course from the Post Hotel at Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada. If you can't find boneless duck breasts, buy two whole ducks, and ask the butcher to remove the breasts for you. Freeze the leg and thigh meat to use at another time. Partner this with green beans for a colorful presentation.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This superb starter has no cream and just one tablespoon of oil.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This rich, silky soup has a touch of spice.

We make this rich, intensely flavored stock for our mushroom soups, sauces, and ragouts. The dried shiitake mushrooms give the stock depth and tremendous flavor. They're readily available in the Asian section of most grocery stores, but if you can't find them, substitute another variety of dried mushrooms — fresh mushrooms alone will make a weak stock. This stock freezes well.

Chilies add a southwestern twist to this traditional chowder.

For a thicker, more traditional soup, replace all the green peas with a half cup of drained canned white beans.

The tofu in this chowder provides a richness surprisingly similar to that of cream but without the fat and cholesterol. Your guests will never know the difference; our tasters didn't. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Kir royale, the French aperitif of Champagne with a splash of cassis, becomes a sophisticated sorbet or granita. If you have them, Champagne coupes or martini glasses make elegant servers.

This rich curried soup has been served at '21' for years. Our restaurant is one of the few places in this country where you can still find it. At '21' the classic garnish is diced poached chicken; this version substitutes chutney.