Gluten Free

At Humphry Slocombe, we serve hordes of loyal, beloved regulars each day. Some are more promiscuous than others, and try all our flavors, mixing it up each visit. Others are monogamous followers of specific flavors, like the one guy who comes in every day for a gallon of vanilla ice cream (for serious), or the devout woman who calls like clockwork to see if we have Rosemary's Baby. One particular young lady was a big fan of Salted Licorice, and arrived promptly every time we had it in stock. After several visits, she came in one day bearing a gift: a bag of black, salty licorice that she brought back from Sweden. When Sean didn't register who or what she was, she became very insulted, threw the candy at him, and stormed off. As soon as she left, Sean remembered her and felt terrible. Angry Licorice Girl, please come back. Sean is very sorry. Nearly everyone has a childhood reference to licorice. Salted Licorice reminds some guests of their travels to Eastern Europe and Scandinavia, where black licorice is ubiquitous. For other guests, Salted Licorice conjures up memories of chewy Red Vines in movie theaters. And it should, because we actually use Red Vines—the black ones, that is. Every once in a while, Sean stretches the truth by saying we use real licorice root. Technically, that's not incorrect…we just use real licorice root after it's been made into Red Vines. We're not afraid to be a little trashy. But not as trashy as Twizzlers. Those are gross.

With the neo-eco-bio-cool. We'll pick our own apricots, cut some rosemary from the garden, a little organic honey…

With different girls

With the little one's football team

I made these one night at a friend's house. He was craving mashed potatoes to go along with the lamb chops I was making, and, having no potatoes to peel, boil, and mash, I went with carrots instead. The sweet, rich mixture that resulted benefitted gloriously from a touch of creamy, pungent gorgonzola, making the perfect bed for the oil-and-herb-marinated lamb chops.
Note: Have your butcher cut the lamb chops into individual "lollipops" for you.

I'll barbecue the hell out of a goat: get the whole animal on the grill or do up just the head or maybe the legs—whatever strikes my fancy. But the shoulder is probably my favorite cut to treat to hours and hours of gentle smoky caressing. This is party cooking, because (a) everyone will want some of this tender, spicy action and (b) though it takes a while to cook, you're only not sitting on your ass and drinking for, like, 10 minutes. The goat shoulder smokes for approximately seven hours. The smoking should be done in an indirect smoker (Texas-style chamber smoker). A temperature of 225°F to 250°F (a big variation, as smokers can be hard to control) should be maintained for 7 to 8 hours. The time variation is big, too, as there are so many smokers, and often backyard versions don't hold heat all that well. At a constant 250°F, it should not take longer than 7 hours, but an understanding of the variable types of equipment should be acknowledged. LISTEN
Idris Muhammad, Boogie to the Top—a fun, funky album. My favorite tune is "Bread" ("B-R-E-A-D, that's what I said!"). Dance with your goat! DRINK
Laphroaig, a couple rocks. Goat, chili, and smoky Scotch—there should be a song about this trio.

Three kindred spirits—pitmaster Robbie Richter, Jori, and I—came up with this profound merging of Southeast Asia and the American South. So profound that it could be both mascot and metaphor for Fatty 'Cue. LISTEN
Hours of southern soul while you drink southern beer and dream of southern girls—that is, if you don't have one of your own. DRINK
Lone Star. We're smoking brisket here, and that's Texas style.

Every Southeast asian country has some variation of green papaya or mango salad. Since it doesn't taste like much (nice texture, though), it's all about the supporting cast as far as delivering flavor goes. And in this version there's such a big cast that you can lose one or two items and the salad will still taste real good. You can even lose the papaya (shhhh) and make it with all the other goodies. Just don't lose the fish sauce, palm sugar, lime juice, or chili—deal? LISTEN
Mayafra Combo, "Iffilah Ha-Ha"—Sonnie Taylor from Trinidad backed up by some Italian musicians. Beautiful vocals and a moving jazz-funk vibe to keep you dancing and cooking. DRINK
A tall glass of water a little cooler than room temp. Seriously.

This dish conveys the grandeur of formal Chinese dinners, but there's nothing intimidating about its preparation. The balance of flavors is sublime, and the presentation is striking — ruffled Napa cabbage is arranged around large pork meatballs to create the appearance of the lionlike Tibetan dog.

I see no reason why salads should be limited to greens. This one has a ton of different textures and flavors and is as visually rewarding as it is delicious. Vermont is famous for its fall color, so when I thought of this dish, I wanted all the components to come together on a platter in the same way that autumn leaves fall together in a collage of color on the forest floor. There are bits of roasted squash, blanched squash, pickled squash, and even toasted squash seeds. While I don't like dishes that are so fussy and manipulated they look less like food and more like art, I can't deny that we eat first with our eyes.

This is the basic pickle that I use for vegetables; it can be prepared ahead of time and kept in the refrigerator for up to a month. I like to keep it around for any last-minute pickling needs.

I love flageolets, the immature kidney beans that the French have been cultivating since the 1800s. They come in a variety of colors; I prefer the green ones, which are slightly firmer than a kidney bean, because they have a wonderful flavor and are really elegant in salads and stews. A little fresh bacon goes a long way toward making these beans remarkable. Curing it for a few hours in salt and sugar helps the bacon retain its flavor in the cooking process. For the greens, I like to use kale and mustard greens, but this dish is wonderful with any hearty green like dandelion greens or even cabbage. The pressure cooker helps to cook the beans easily and imparts all the wonderful porky-ness of the bacon.

Since I've spent so many years eating and cooking in Spain, I would be remiss if I didn't include a gazpacho in this book. But alas, this is not your abuela's gazpacho. In this version, peaches, plums, and watermelon all come together in a bright, colorful, chilled soup that is topped with a single seared diver scallop. The tart sour plums allow the sweet plump scallop to feel a little less self-conscious in its summery dress. If you can't find sour plums, substitute sweet plums, preferably golden plums, plus the juice of 2 lemons.

Sweet nectarines balance the earthy green peppers in this colorful side.

Briefly blanching whole onions makes them easy to separate and fill.

A salad this simple requires the finest ingredients to make it shine.

Roasting the birds over rosemary sprigs imparts a surprising amount of flavor.

If you can't find almond syrup, floral, almond-flavored orgeat syrup is a fine substitute.

Once you know how much condensed milk you like, pour it directly into the cup or glass before you brew the coffee.

The secret to this flavorful sauce, which is delicious with almost all grilled meat and fish, is to use any herb that looks good at the market. Just be sure to include parsley: It gives the salsa backbone.