Vegetarian

Because the potatoes are cooked and served whole, be sure to select those that are similar in size to ensure they cook evenly.

A Japanese or French mandoline is great for slicing vegetables uniformly—anywhere from very thin to thick—and takes much less time than slicing by hand with a knife.

We served the polenta with Braised Lamb Shanks with Tomato and Fennel (page 260), but it is equally delicious with chicken, veal, or pork, or as part of a vegetarian meal with a salad.

You can make the polenta through step 1 ahead of time; let cool, then cover and refrigerate.

Using a mandoline to slice the potatoes is quick and easy. You can do so up to four hours ahead; to prevent browning, place matchsticks in a bowl of cold water in the refrigerator until ready to use, then pat them dry with paper towels.

This recipe can be made a day ahead and refrigerated; reheat before serving.

Use a mandoline or a very sharp knife to cut the celery and zucchini.

Quickly grill ramps to make the most of their wild, earthy flavor.