Vegetarian

Be sure your kitchen is well ventilated when you soak the New Mexican and guajillo chiles; their vapors can be a mild irritant.

You can use shredded Monterey Jack cheese in place of the cotija and queso blanco. Other wild mushrooms, such as shiitakes, can be substituted for the porcini.

Store the granola in an airtight container at room temperature up to 1 week.

These turnovers are a variation on the classic pain au chocolat. For maximum flavor, look for the highest-quality chocolate possible, such as Callebaut, Valrhona, or Scharffen Berger.

You can make coffee icing by whisking together 2 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar, 1 tablespoon melted butter, and 3 tablespoons brewed coffee. Make the icing just before serving.

This recipe makes two kinds of mousse: bittersweet chocolate and milk chocolate.

Purchase high-quality pistachios, and pick through the nuts for the greenest ones. After roasting, rub the nuts between your palms to eliminate as much of the brown skin as possible.

This cake is best when served the day it is made. You can bake the cake in the morning and finish it later in the day. It can stand in a cool place for about 3 hours before serving. Marrons glacés (whole candied chestnuts) are available in specialty food stores.

Coating the muffin tins with butter and sugar gives these little chocolate cakes sparkle and a bit of crunch.

The most time-consuming step is making the coconut curls; in a pinch, you can use store-bought shaved coconut.