Cookbooks

The olives can be prepared three days ahead and refrigerated, covered. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Using tequila as a steaming liquid enhances the flavor of the clams and oysters, but it’s fine to use water instead. Setting the skillet over a grill gives the dish a touch of smokiness, or you can use your stove turned to medium-high heat.

Ciabatta, a long, flat Italian bread, is ideal for this recipe, but you could also use a rustic round loaf; instead of splitting it horizontally, cut 6 1 1/4-inch-thick slices. You can refrigerate leftover chimichurri in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

We used morel mushrooms, a spring variety known for its nutty flavor and pitted flesh, but any wild mushrooms, an assortment, or even cultivated mushrooms will also make a nice sauce. You can prepare the popover batter in advance, and refrigerate it for up to one day. Let it stand at room temperature for 20 minutes before baking. The sauce can also be made one day ahead. Let it cool completely, then refrigerate. Reheat over medium-low heat, adding heavy cream to thin, if necessary. If you have leftovers, keep them in an airtight container for up to one day.

If you can’t find lemon thyme, use small, fresh basil leaves instead.

If using prepared horseradish, reduce the amount of lemon juice to 1 tablespoon.

The thick consistency of Greek yogurt is ideal for this spread. If your grocer doesn’t sell it, use another whole-milk yogurt, and drain it for 30 minutes in a fine sieve set over a bowl. You can make the spread one day ahead and refrigerate it (cover with plastic wrap); wait until just before serving to stir in the parsley and radishes.

You can use store-bought mayonnaise, if you like; skip step 1.