Cookbooks

A tian is a Provençal creation named for the traditional earthenware baking dish. Be sure to drizzle generously with oil to impart flavor and keep the vegetables from drying out (remember, there’s no other liquid in a tian); you can spoon off excess oil after cooking.

This is a good way to use tomatoes that are less than perfect, as the baking intensifies their flavor, and honey enhances their sweetness. They make lovely accompaniments to meat, chicken, or fish, or use them when steaming en papillote (see page 215). The tomatoes can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to three days.

Tenderloin is widely considered one of the best sections of beef for roasting; it becomes meltingly tender during cooking. It’s also one of the more expensive cuts, so you’ll want to take care to cook tenderloin properly. Fortunately, this is spectacularly easy to do. The tenderloin is first seared on the stove, but this step is optional. (The roast will be just as delicious if it’s not seared, but many people prefer the look—and texture—of a nicely browned crust.) If you decide not to sear the roast, you will need to increase the cooking time a bit. Just keep checking the temperature of the meat, until it registers 125°F.

When slow-roasted in the oven, tomatoes develop a concentrated flavor with a dense yet chewy texture that is similar to that of sun-dried tomatoes but fresher. They are excellent alone or in salads, sandwiches, and pasta dishes. The length of time it takes to slow-roast tomatoes depends their size and freshness, but little effort is involved once they are in the oven except to check their progress every now and then, especially toward the end. (If they are darkening too quickly, reduce the temperature to 225°F.) The tomatoes will keep for one week in the refrigerator in a covered container. This recipe calls for beefsteak tomatoes, but you can successfully slow-roast plum tomatoes as well.

White cakes, as opposed to butter cakes like the one on page 428, are made with egg whites only, and they offer another good lesson in how French meringue can help give loft, or leavening, to a cake. (The heat of the oven causes the beaten whites to expand; in this case, they are helped by a chemical leavener, namely baking powder.) It’s important to beat the whites until they are stiff but not dry, and to make sure that you fold them into the batter very gently, in parts, so that they retain their volume. First, you fold in just a third of the beaten whites to “lighten” the creamed batter (so it is easier to incorporate the rest without overmixing), then you very gently fold in the rest and quickly transfer the batter to the prepared pans, lest it lose any volume. True to its name, the cake remains pure white inside after baking, save for the brown flecks of flavor-enhancing vanilla seeds.

Bell peppers are roasted largely to remove the skins, which makes the vegetables supple and almost silky and perfect for marinating in a fragrant mix of oil, garlic, and basil. (This works for orange and yellow peppers, too, but not for green, because the skin is too thin.) Many recipes call for cutting the peppers into pieces lengthwise and roasting under the broiler, but it can be difficult to make the pieces flat enough to blacken evenly. It’s easier to roast them right on the stove, over a gas burner, turning with tongs as each side blackens. Serve the marinated pieces as part of an antipasto with bread, cheese, olives, and cured meats, or toss them into pastas or over a pizza.

In many Asian cuisines, a common way to steam whole fish (usually surrounded by aromatics) is on a plate that is customarily set in a very large wok. The plate captures the juices that collect during cooking and create a flavorful broth. You can set the platter in a roasting pan if the fish is quite large, but use a wok if yours will accommodate. You‘ll have about a cup of broth after the fish has finished cooking, so use a platter deep enough to hold it. Then, be sure to drizzle some over each serving. Set out bowls of steamed rice and bok choy or wilted spinach along with more Asian fish sauce, a traditional table condiment.

Portion-size cuts of meat or chicken take a relatively short amount of time to cook through (as opposed to, say, a whole chicken or leg of lamb), so you can’t rely on the high temperature of the oven to sear the surface of the meat to a golden brown. (In other words, it would take longer for the meat to brown on the outside than to cook through on the inside.) Instead, the meat is first seared on the stove. This recipe is for chicken breast halves (with the skin left on during cooking for added flavor and to keep the meat from drying out), but the method can be used to cook thick pork or lamb chops; skin-on fish fillets, such as bass, salmon, and snapper; or even steaks, such as porterhouse or T-bone, which take too long to cook entirely on the stove. Pan-roasting is frequently practiced in restaurants, as it allows chefs to get a nice crust on the meat and then quickly finish it in the oven. Choose quick-cooking vegetables and other accompaniments, such as the grape tomatoes here, so that everything is ready at once.

This is another example of the basic method of steaming shellfish in a small amount of liquid, rather than in a basket set over the liquid. The broth below is given even more depth (and wonderful color) with a last-minute addition of herb oil; butter lends it a bit of richness. To soak up the flavorful broth, serve crusty bread on the side. You could also serve the clams and broth over longstranded pasta, such as linguine or spaghetti.

Few dishes are as gratifying to prepare (and eat) as a simple roast chicken. Every cook should have this technique in his or her repertoire. It may seem like an easy feat, but making the best roast chicken—with crisp, golden skin and tender, juicy meat—takes some dexterity. The challenge lies in the bird itself, with the lean breast meat requiring less time to cook than the richer, fattier legs. Moreover, there’s the goal of achieving the proper degrees of crispness, color, flavor, and moistness. Many recipes require you to turn and baste the chicken as it cooks, or to start at a lower temperature (presumably to allow the inside to cook through), then finish at a higher temperature (to crisp the skin). The technique in this recipe relies on “fast and high” roasting, whereby the chicken is cooked in a hot (450°F) oven for the entire time. Keep in mind that roast chicken is infinitely adaptable, and consider this recipe as the starting point for creating your own variations. Building flavor can be accomplished in many ways. You can stuff the cavity with fresh herbs, such as thyme, sage, or savory; citrus slices; or other aromatics, such as garlic or onion. Or make a rack of sliced onion, then place the bird on top. Spreading butter over the skin makes it even more brown and crisp; tucking butter and herbs under the skin has a similar effect and adds another flavor component. (These steps will also lend much flavor to the pan sauce.) You can roast potatoes, carrots, parsnips, or other vegetables along with the chicken for a practically effortless one-pan dish. Also, you may want to roast two birds, side by side (leaving room between for ample browning); with a roast chicken in the refrigerator—it will keep for days—other dishes are within easy reach. Shred the meat to toss into green salads or to add to soups, casseroles, or pasta dishes. Or combine it with mayonnaise for a sandwich filling.

Of the three types of meringue, Swiss meringue is perhaps the easiest for the home cook to master. This recipe is by no means as simple as the Easy Chocolate Buttercream on page 432, but it is a good next step on the way to more involved icings such as Italian meringue. You begin by combining egg whites and sugar in a mixing bowl and then whisking them over a pan of simmering water. Because the heat is more gentle, you won’t have to use a candy thermometer. Once the sugar has melted, and the egg whites are warm, the bowl is transferred to an electric-mixer stand and the mixture whipped to stiff peaks. When the mixture is completely cool, softened butter is beaten in piece by piece, to create a silky smooth icing. It is ultrarich and delicious, and can be used on cakes that run the gamut from homespun to oh-so-fancy.

Steaming a pot of shellfish is actually quite simple—and quick. It requires just a small amount of aromatic liquid, such as the wine used in the recipe below, which imparts flavor to the shellfish while also mixing with the flavorful liquid released from the shellfish, resulting in a delicious broth. And the shells serve as a “steamer basket,” keeping the shellfish from being submerged in the liquid. A dry white wine is used as the steaming liquid; other good choices would be beer or water (you could even forgo adding liquid and steam the mussels in a covered pot until they open, as they have enough liquid in their shells, then sprinkle with salt and pepper). Here some aromatics are sautéed before the liquid is added to enhance its flavor before adding the mussels. In Belgium and France, mussels are traditionally accompanied by piping hot French Fries (page 333), but a crusty loaf of bread is always welcome.

Just as a salad of chilled marinated vegetables feels right for spring, warm roasted vegetables make a splendid salad in the fall. The goal is similar for both: take seasonal produce, cook them to coax out their flavors and soften their texture, then toss each component separately in dressing before artfully arranging on a platter. You could even apply this formula to a summer salad of grilled vegetables, including eggplant, bell peppers, tomatoes, and zucchini. The recipe calls for roasted shallots, parsnips, carrots, and beets, but other root vegetables would also be lovely, such as turnips, winter squash (butternut, acorn, or pumpkin), Brussels sprouts, or sweet potatoes and other tubers. Toasted spiced pepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds) are an entirely optional addition, yet they contribute welcome notes of heat and crunchy texture. Grated sharp Cheddar cheese would add protein and another layer of complexity.

Just like a great drop-cookie recipe, every home cook needs a fuss-free cake that can be mixed in a flash and is adaptable enough for layer cakes and cupcakes. One-Bowl Chocolate Cupcakes are so effortless, they don’t even warrant their own technique lesson; you simply combine dry ingredients and whisk in a few liquid ones. There is no need for an electric mixer, and best of all, you have to use only one bowl in the process.

Preparing foods en papillote, which loosely translates to “wrapped in paper,” is actually another way to steam food, even though it takes place in the oven rather than on the stove. It is most commonly used for fish fillets but is also well suited to shellfish and leaner cuts of chicken, such as boneless breast halves. This French technique always manages to impress, the pretty little packages resembling gifts, one for each guest. When the packets are slit open—ceremoniously, at the table—their fragrant aromas are released all at once, hinting at the tastes to come. These bundles are ideal for entertaining, but cooking en papillote has other advantages, too. The packets can be assembled a few hours ahead of time (covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated on a baking sheet) and then tucked into the oven once your guests arrive. And, like other steaming methods, it doesn’t require much added fat; instead, the sealed parchment traps in all that wonderful moisture and flavor. In this recipe, a compound butter helps bring all the components together while adding richness to the dish. Forming the packets is easy—no special skills required. The shape isn’t as important as making sure the edges are tightly sealed. You can fold the parchment into envelopes, wrap it into bundles, or form it into bags, but half-moon packets are the classic shape. The traditional technique begins by cutting paper into a heart shape, but this one starts out as a simple rectangle.

Bamboo steamers are tiered, allowing you to cook more than one item at a time and make a meal out of assorted components, such as the salmon and vegetables in this recipe. General rules of steaming apply no matter which implement you use. For instance, when steaming fish or other proteins, place any aromatics (such as the dill used here) directly underneath them. You could also add the aromatics to the steaming liquid (instead of or in addition to). Adding wine, vinegar, or lemon (or other citrus) juice to the steaming liquid is another way to subtly boost flavors. As with many steamed foods, this dish is equally delicious when served hot, cold, or at room temperature, making it a perfect meal for busy weeknights. The lemon yogurt sauce is a lovely accompaniment, especially when the fish is chilled before serving.

To make this Australian dessert—named for Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, who toured Australia in the 1920s—whipped cream and fresh fruit are layered atop a crisp French-meringue shell. Properly baked, the meringue stays completely white and develops a crunchy outer shell and a soft, marshmallow-like interior. Pavlova is traditionally topped with passionfruit, strawberries, or kiwi fruit, but this recipe features poached apricots and fresh black raspberries. Feel free to top a pavlova with other fresh, macerated, poached, or even roasted fruits.

These two egg-based sauces are examples of emulsions, among the most ethereal of the sauces in the classic canon. Emulsions are mixtures of two substances, such as oil and vinegar, that would not usually combine; made properly, they are perfectly smooth and delectably rich yet surprisingly light. Although other ingredients, such as butter and mustard, can act as emulsifiers, the egg yolk is the most effective. It is also a stabilizer, holding the emulsion over time.

Delightfully airy and light, this spongy dessert is a good example of the adaptability of a French-meringue base. The cake gets its lift from stiffly beaten egg whites rather than chemical leaveners, such as baking soda or baking powder. (Incidentally, there are no butter or egg yolks either, making the cake fat-free.) Whisking up the perfect meringue is crucial: Overbeating can deflate the whites, and underbeating won’t allow enough air to be incorporated. Similarly, don’t skimp on sifting; you will need to sift the flour and a portion of the sugar together no fewer than five times in order to achieve a featherlight texture. Mix on medium-high speed (never high) to strengthen the cake’s structure. When it comes time to fold in the flour, cut the spatula down through the center of the egg whites, make a sweeping motion up the side of the bowl, then turn spatula over (as if you were making the letter “J”). Repeat until just combined, rotating bowl as you go. Before serving, dust the cake lightly with confectioners’ sugar and scatter fresh berries around it; dollop freshly whipped cream alongside each slice.

Winter squash makes a very beautiful, fine-textured puree, and there is no need to strain it to finish.