Cookbooks

A high proportion of lemon juice gives curd its intense flavor. Since it is an acidic ingredient, it also prevents the yolks from curdling, eliminating the extra step of tempering. Lemon curd makes a delicious filling for a cake like the one on page 457 but it’s equally welcome spread into a tart shell or on slices of pound cake or Buttermilk Shortcakes (page 433). Gelatin is added primarily to make a sturdier cake filling; leave it out if you are making the curd to serve on its own. Other citrus curds can be made using the formula below; replace 1/2 cup of the lemon juice with other fresh citrus juice and use an equal measure of zest.

The cabbage family takes quite well to braising. Start by caramelizing the apples and onions with some sugar for a pleasant balance of sweet and tart flavors. Not only does the vinegar add a delicious flavor, but the acid helps keep the cabbage a bright purple color.

Unlike crème anglaise, which is pourable, pastry cream is intended to hold its shape, requiring the addition of starch for structure (cornstarch is preferred over flour for producing a silkier texture). For this reason, pastry cream must be brought to a full boil to activate the starch and ensure proper thickening. Contrary to its name, pastry cream contains no cream, only milk; butter is added at the end for richness. Pastry cream is used to fill tarts, cream pies (such as Boston or banana), pâte à choux (cream puffs, éclairs, and profiteroles), and puff-pastry confections, notably napoleons and mille-feuille.

Seafood boils are a mainstay of Southern cooking, the type of shellfish varying by region. Shrimp boils are most commonly associated with Low Country (South Carolina) cooking, while crawfish is a specialty of Louisiana. In most of these one-pot dishes, new potatoes and corncobs (and sometimes onion wedges and sausages) are first cooked in the pot, often on the grill, and the shellfish added at the end. Then everything is piled onto a platter and served with lemon wedges, melted butter, and hot sauce on the side. Despite the name of the preparation, shrimp shouldn’t actually be boiled (or even poached), since they will toughen if overcooked. And the point at which they turn from perfectly cooked to overcooked is very hard to detect when in boiling water. Here, the cooking water is spiked with a few simple aromatics, but you could use Old Bay Seasoning (follow the suggestions on the package for the amount) for classic peel-and-eat shrimp. Or replace the water with Court Bouillon (page 231). Serve chilled shrimp with cocktail sauce (recipe below) or as an ingredient in salads.

This is an example of a short braise, where the cooking liquid is not reduced to make a sauce. Many recipes call for broccoli rabe to be blanched and then sautéed to remove some of its bitterness, but if you prefer its natural taste, braising is a better option. It mellows the bitterness without adding an extra step, especially when cooked in chicken stock, which adds a touch of richness.

When you’re using fresh lobster meat, the fewer the other ingredients, the better-tasting (and more authentic) the salad will be. Some people like to use only mayonnaise or melted butter, but a sprinkling of fresh herbs and lemon juice can also be delicious and not at all overpowering. Buttered toasted buns and a side of chips are musts—at least among purists.

These lobsters need nothing more than drawn butter and lemons as companions at the table (preferably one covered with newspaper and set with bibs, lobster picks, and nutcrackers). Lobster also has an affinity for fresh herbs, such as tarragon, chervil, and parsley, any of which can be minced and stirred into the melted butter. Of course, some people think the best way to eat lobster is to pile it on a buttered, toasted bun (see recipe). No matter how you plan to enjoy lobster, you’ll need to extract the succulent meat; see the how-to (page 240).

This traditional Chinese cooking technique relies on very high heat to quickly cook vegetables, which are small or cut into bite-size pieces and stirred constantly in a hot wok or skillet. They are usually combined with a classic Chinese flavor base such as the ginger, garlic, and scallion in this recipe, in the same way that French and Italian dishes begin with mirepoix or soffritto. Because of the rapid cooking time, the vegetables tend to stay very crisp and retain their vitamins and bright color. Preparing all ingredients before heating your wok or skillet is essential, as it will ensure you can add each at the appropriate time; wash, cut, and store vegetables in separate bowls. Stir-frying relies on even hotter heat than sautéing, which is sometimes attainable only on a commercial-grade cooktop. You’ll get best results at home if you heat the wok for several minutes before adding oil and if you cook different vegetables separately, allowing the pan to heat between batches. If stir-frying a small quantity or one that doesn’t require cooking in batches, add vegetables that will take longest first and those that cook quickest last. Either way, do not overcrowd your pan, or the vegetables will steam rather than sear. For extra browning, press vegetables against the side of the wok for a few seconds with a spatula. Stir-fried dishes are often tossed or served with a sauce, usually made by pouring stock or other flavorings directly to the pan. Sometimes a slurry—a thickening agent made of liquid and cornstarch or flour—is incorporated into the liquid to thicken the sauce. Be sure to bring the slurry to a full boil to activate the thickener, and then to cook for a minute or two to eliminate the starchy taste.

Flan, also known as crème caramel, is very similar to Crème Brûlee (opposite), in that a custard (here made with whole eggs and milk, rather than yolks and cream) is combined with a layer of caramel. But with flan, the caramel is poured into the dish before the custard is added; once the custard has baked and chilled, it is inverted before serving, so the caramel—which first hardens and then turns to liquid again in the warm oven—on the bottom becomes a sauce on top. There are two critical steps in making the caramel: First is to prevent the sugar from crystallizing. The second is to stop the caramel from cooking any more as soon as it has reached the desired color. Combining the sugar with water at the outset makes it much less likely to crystallize, so long as the sugar is dissolved (adding lemon juice can also help). Also, avoid stirring the mixture, as crystals can form on the spoon; swirl the pan to dissolve the sugar instead. Finally, keep a pastry brush and small bowl of water within easy reach for washing away any crystals that form on the sides of the pan, and set up an ice bath, to help stop the cooking when the time comes.

Pot-au-feu (literally “pot on the fire”) is sometimes described as the national dish of France. It certainly embodies one of that country’s primary tenets of cooking: taking inexpensive and widely available ingredients and, with a bit of careful tending-to and extended cooking, turning them into a dish fit for a king. Calling it a one-pot dish, however, is a bit of a misnomer; sure, most everything is cooked in the same pot, just not at the same time (the potatoes are always cooked separately). What you end up with is a multifaceted meal that retains the taste of each of its components. If you want to follow tradition, serve the broth as a separate course, then present the sliced meat and vegetables on a platter. Choose among mandatory accompaniments—fresh horseradish, assorted mustards, cornichons (or gherkins), and sea salt—and be sure to offer toasted bread for spreading with the marrow scooped from the bones.

When prepared properly, Japanese-style deep-fried vegetables are light and crisp and not at all greasy. Baking powder in the batter helps it to puff up in the hot oil, while cornstarch keeps it from being too dense (as it can be when made with all flour). Ice-cold batter is the secret to successful tempura, so be sure to use ice water (drained of ice). You can use any type of vegetable in this recipe, as long as you slice the vegetables thinly and uniformly so they cook evenly. Root vegetables should be sliced a bit thinner since they take longer to cook.

The allure of crème brûlée, French for “burnt cream,” lies in its apparent contradiction: a topping of sugar, singed to golden brown, crackles over a cool, creamy-smooth custard. To achieve that silky consistency in baked custards, it’s critical that the oven temperature be regulated (to be both even and gentle). This is why the custard molds are set in a bain-marie, or hot-water bath, made by pouring water around molds into a roasting pan, which insulates the custard from hot spots in the oven. Another precautionary measure is to eliminate any excess bubbles in the custard after it is poured into the ramekins (just before baking). These bubbles will rise as the custard bakes, causing holes to form in the top. To get rid of them, pass the flame of a kitchen torch briefly over the liquid in the ramekins. Don’t worry if some remain, since the tops will be caramelized, hiding any imperfections.

The secret to perfect fries—crisp on the outside and soft within—is to “fry” them twice, first to cook through, then to crisp and color. The first step is called blanching rather than deep-frying, since the temperature of the oil (300°F) is sufficient to soften, but not brown. (If you tried to cook them at a high temperature the whole time, the outsides would burn before the insides were cooked through.) The second step involves true deep-frying: the oil is brought up to 350°F—hot enough to quickly brown the outside without needing to cook the interior further. As with the sautéed rosti (page 329), the potatoes are soaked in water before cooking to remove excess starch, then dried thoroughly. Whenever deep-frying, remember that the oil should be maintained at the proper temperature, so you will need to adjust the heat as necessary. Unless you have a deep-fryer, use a cast-iron pot; it holds its heat better and distributes heat more evenly than other types. Also, frying can leave oil marks on stainless steel and other surfaces that are difficult to clean. To keep the temperature from dropping too much, add potatoes in batches; this will also ensure that they fry evenly and quickly. If the temperature spikes at any time, cool down the oil by adding some room-temperature oil to the pot. Be sure to salt the fries immediately after removing from the oil, when they are still piping hot. Any other seasonings (such as the lemon zest and rosemary below) are purely optional. Homemade mayonnaise (page 95) is an indulgent option for dipping. Or drizzle with malt vinegar for a tangy taste.

This roasting technique is unique to duck. For the skin to turn crisp, the thick layer of fat that covers the breast needs to be rendered. That’s the reason for the slow roasting at a low temperature (300°F as opposed to 450°F for chicken). This allows the duck enough time in the oven to render the fat before the breast meat has finished cooking, producing a duck with crisp, golden skin. To offset its richness, duck is often coated with a tangy glaze. In this recipe, the classic duck à l’orange, which put French-style duck on the American map, has been updated with a glaze that combines the flavors of pomegranate, honey, and orange.

With its clean taste and light body, Court Bouillon is used to poach fish, shellfish, and lean white meats such as chicken and veal, when you want to impart only subtle flavor. It can be as simple as a few aromatics steeped in water or more complex with a fruity white wine or other acidic ingredients, such as vinegar or lemon juice. As with stocks, you should feel free to improvise with whatever is in your vegetable bin (or garden, if you have one). The ingredients called for here are common, but you can leave out some or replace them with other mild-tasting herbs or vegetables. The goal is to avoid overpowering the food that will be poached in the liquid.

Peaches are used in this very basic recipe for fruit jam, but you could substitute an equal amount of apricots or plums in their place. Add it to ice cream, or use it to fill a jelly roll cake such as the one on page 464. The jam is quickly made and can be kept refrigerated in an airtight container up to 2 weeks. If you prefer, strain the jam in a fine sieve before storing.

Custard serves as an incomparable ice-cream base. Also called French ice cream, frozen custard usually consists of a combination of egg yolks, milk, and cream. What makes it different from other ice cream, such as Philadelphia-style (which contains no egg), is the base, which is a variation of crème anglaise, a cold sauce that often accompanies soufflés, cakes, poached fruit, and meringues. (To make the sauce, simply follow the recipe below, substituting 3 cups whole milk for the skim milk and cream and omitting corn syrup; do not freeze after straining and chilling.) Unlike many store-bought versions, ice cream made from scratch has a deeply luxurious texture. It’s voluminous and soft, able to envelop whatever delectable flavors you plan to blend into it. And as long as you have an ice-cream machine, there’s not much to the preparation. It’s just a matter of cooking the custard, chilling it, and then letting the machine handle the bulk of the work. Ice cream has the best texture when it has just finished churning; it’s somewhere between soft-serve and regular ice cream. If making ice cream ahead of time, make sure to take it out of the freezer 15 to 30 minutes before serving (depending on the room temperature) to soften slightly.