Make Ahead

Gregory Gourreau, my cooking partner when I was sous-chef at Daniel, worked on a dish where he froze citrus into something that resembled a mosaic. I loved the idea and played with it for a while, until I came up with this refreshing block of oranges. I like to use a 4-inch square plastic tube to form the citrus mixture, but you could just as easily use two 15-ounce cans. Remove the tops and bottoms and wash them well.

I candy Etrog citrons in the restaurant, but I’ve adapted the recipe for good old lemons. You could chop this up and fold it into whipped cream. Or serve over ice cream.

There are so many uses for this preserve, which captures the zing of the citrus. Chop it up and use it as a garnish for sweet sorbets or as a marmalade on buttered Brioche (page 194). Or wrap a strawberry or a piece of melon with a slice of this lemon, stick a toothpick through it, and you’ve got a fruit canapé. I’m not giving a yield or amounts here, because you can make as much of this classic preserve as you wish. If they’re in season, Meyer lemons are what you want.

These days, I like to carbonate my curds (see page 134, for example), but you could serve this one, with its mix of lemon, lime, and orange, as is, spooned over berries or over sorbet, or both.

I use this as a component in Chocolate-Pear Cake (page 98), but it’s delicious served by itself or garnished with diced Poached Pears (page 247).

This coconut cream is light and fluffy, but it has a truly rich body, which comes from the coconut curd base. You can use this cream—or even the curd on its own—as a filling for tarts and top with fresh berries, mango, or papaya. Serve the leftover curd on toast or toasted brioche.

use this as a garnish for Chocolate-Pear Cake (page 98), but it would be delicious in the bottom of a glass of champagne.

I developed this jam for Cherry-Chocolate Linzer Tarts (page 76), but it’s great on fresh Brioche (page 194) that’s been slathered with butter.

I love the burst of flavor when I combine this compote with Cream Cheese Ice Cream (page 223), but you could also put it out for brunch, with bagels and cream cheese and smoked salmon, to bring that acidic tang you’d usually get from a ripe summer tomato.

There were always barrels of pickles at the flea markets my parents took me to when I was growing up. My dad loved half-sours; my mom loved sweet pickles; I loved both. Mom would cut both kinds in half and stick them together, so I’ d get two flavors in every bite. This is my homage to those days, made with one of my favorite ingredients.

This simple preparation replaces the bitterness of raw rhubarb with the musty richness of port while maintaining a special crispness in flavor. You could put this out with cheese. Or pair it with Pink Peppercorn Meringues (page 38), fresh berries, ice cream, and whipped cream for a deconstructed vacherin.

While I serve these pears with Semolina Pancakes (page 97), you could spoon them over any pancake and replace the traditional maple syrup accompaniment with this poaching liquid instead. Poached pears are also great in a simple trifle, with layers of ice cream and crisp cookies. Poaching is a long, gentle cooking process, so firm fruit is what you want. Choose pears of equal ripeness for poaching, and they will all be equally tender.

The trick to cooking quinces is to maintain their fragrance and delicate flavor while you coax them into tenderness. Gentle poaching is an ideal way to achieve this goal. Use poached quinces interchangeably with poached pears. They’re great with chocolate, with cheese, or with walnuts and arugula as a salad. If you’ve saved vanilla pods from other recipes, use them here in place of fresh beans.

Fresh sour cherries are best, but you can also make this recipe with frozen morello cherries. These cherries will keep in the refrigerator for several months and are fantastic spooned over ice cream or a simple cake or even dropped into a glass of champagne with a little of their syrup.

This simple technique yields amazing results, intensifying the flavor of the strawberries so that each one explodes on your palate. The strawberries I use are small, local, day-neutral or “ever-bearing” varieties like Tristar, which come from local farmers. You can roast larger berries, but they will take longer and they won’t be as sweet.

The warm richness of pear and the earthiness of cumin combine to create a new flavor that to me is the epitome of fall. This granité isn’t too sweet, so you could also serve it as a middle course of a big dinner, before the meat. You could substitute sparkling apple cider mixed with an equal amount of pear puree for the pear cider.

The caramel notes of this sherry lend themselves well to the fruits available in autumn.

I love sangria in the summertime and always thought about turning it into a slushy. Here, I’ve taken it one step further and made granité. The acid from the raspberries both brightens and enhances the flavors of the wines.

Dessert wines are usually too sweet for me, so I introduce the natural acids of fresh fruit or berries for balance, as in this granité. Serve this over berries or add it to a margarita.

The combination of bitter Campari and sweet tangerine couldn’t be more refreshing.