Make Ahead

You may as well commit this recipe to memory because I guarantee you will return to it when you’re looking for that little something extra to add to recipes in this book and beyond. You’ll use it to dunk donuts, drizzle it on Wonder Buns, even slather it on pancakes.

Creamy, light, and sweet—you’ll want to smother this all over pretty much everything. Way overeager one ambitious morning, I even tried it in a cup of coffee. Please do not do that. It is, however, perfect on just about anything else.

Making your own tomato-based sauce to dip your cheese straws into or to spread on your pizza is super-easy. At the bakery, we usually toss something together with whatever spare veggies and tidbits we have lying around. The foundation, however, goes a little something like this.

I often turn to unrefined sugar to sweeten my cookies because I love the crunchy texture it provides. But when it comes to whoopie pies, agave nectar works much better. The reason is simple: Traditionally, whoopie pies are built with cookies that are fairly squishy and cake-like by comparison—way more so than a typical cookie sandwich. For the filling I prefer Ricemellow Crème, the marshmallow concoction made by Suzanne’s Specialties (see page 17), but you can fill it with the Vanilla Icing (page 127) for equally wonderful results.

This makes a wonderful sweet-tart condiment with caramelized, almost molasses, undertones. It lasts for at least two weeks in the fridge and is amazing drizzled over creamy, mild ingredients such as avocado slices or soft goat cheese spread on crackers. It’s especially good over filet mignon (page 108) and Brazilian Leeks (page 142), which in fact go beautifully together.

In the South, we mean it when we offer you a tall glass of sweet tea—it is sweet! This is the real thing, infused with help from the hot sun and sweet enough to put a smile on anyone’s face. Make sure to add the sugar right after you bring the warm tea in from the sun so it’ll dissolve completely. Once the sweet tea is mixed, keep it refrigerated and discard it if it appears at all cloudy.

These are ingredients I always have on hand, so this grill sauce is easy to pull together in just a few minutes to add luscious flavor to grilled steak or ribs. When I have a little more time, I make it an hour or two in advance and use half to marinate the meat before grilling and the other half to brush on while grilling.

My friends request this recipe more often than any other. I am often asked if it’s a family recipe. I take it as a compliment that people always seem so surprised to hear that I found it in a magazine when I was about twelve years old. I’ve made it so many times since then and it has evolved into what it is today. I think it’s so delicious—and popular!—because of its clear but very flavorful broth. So often tortilla soup is heavy, but this one is hearty without being unpleasantly thick. In fact, I make such a large batch because everyone always wants seconds and thirds. On the rare occasions that I’ve had leftovers, I’ve discovered that the soup keeps very well, and even gets better, stored in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator. The garnishes keep well stored in zip-top bags; keep the fried tortilla strips at room temperature and everything else in the refrigerator. When serving the second day, just place all the garnishes at the bottom of the bowl and ladle the soup over. I use two kinds of dried chiles—ancho and pasilla—because they add more depth and smoky notes to the broth. Use more or fewer chiles depending on how strong you want their flavor to be. For more on dried chiles, see page 96.

I love this dip for company because you can whip it together and put it in the oven just as your guests arrive. In the time it takes to stow their coats and serve them drinks, the dip becomes hot and bubbly and can be brought from the oven straight to serving, trailing along with it an enticing aroma of warm Parmesan cheese and artichokes. If you have time, prepare the dip by processing it in the food processor, place it in the baking dish, cover, and refrigerate it overnight. With time, the flavors blend and become even better. If you don’t have that kind of time, don’t worry! This is still a creamy, tangy, wonderful dip even when pulled together at the last possible minute.

Tendersweet roasted garlic has a multitude of uses, either left whole, as in Thyme-Smoked Four-Inch Porterhouse Steak (page 168), or pureed, as in Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes (page 193). Keep the garlic oil for sautéing potatoes, making vinaigrettes, or brushing on fish before grilling.