Beware—once you've had a few bites of this rice, you'll surely be back for seconds and thirds. Loaded with bits of treasure—smoked oysters, meaty mushrooms, Chinese sausage that tastes almost candied—the rice itself has an amazing chew that exemplifies the Chinese genius for varying textures in a meal. Though the lotus-leaf wrapping is optional, the rice gains a beguiling aroma, suggestive of tea, if you do use it—and the drama of unwrapping the stuffing at the table, like a lovely present, shouldn't be underestimated.
· Stuffing can be made and wrapped in lotus leaf (but not steamed) 1 day ahead and chilled, uncovered, until cool, then covered with a dampened paper towel.
· Mushrooms can be soaked 1 day ahead, then chilled in soaking liquid, covered.
· Stuffing can be kept warm in steamer or in a 350°F oven; for oven, cover stuffing with a dampened paper towel (still in pie plate), then wrap tightly in foil.
