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Shiitake-Wine Sauce

This intense wine sauce is delicious and pours lusciously. I think up excuses to serve this as often as I can, on chicken (page 83), filet mignon (page 108), or steak. This is the one sauce that I really love to eat in abundance, so this recipe makes a generous amount—spoon a little on top of each serving and pass the rest at the table.

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Turn humble onions into this thrifty yet luxe pasta dinner.
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I should address the awkward truth that I don’t use butter here but cream instead. You could, if you’re a stickler for tradition (and not a heretic like me), add a big slab of butter to the finished curry.