When I was a kid, I used to think that beets tasted just like the dirt they were grown in. Happily, I am older, wiser, less fussy, and can appreciate the sweet earthiness of these beautiful vegetables—and I do find that dressings made with a little fruit vinegar bring out the sweet and temper the earthiness. A bright, tangy goat cheese is such a perfect match that it’s become ubiquitous on bistro menus.
Cooks' Note
For a richer salad, toss the beets with your favorite creamy horseradish or blue cheese dressing. If the beet stems and leaves are pretty, don't discard them. Instead chop them up, wash them, and sauté with garlic and olive oil as an iron-rich green vegetable.
