Name: Roast Beef Tenderloin with Port Sauce
Yield: Makes 10 servings
Ingredients: 1 4- to 5-pound trimmed whole beef tenderloin, tail end tucked under, tied every 3 inches; 2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt; 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) chilled unsalted butter, divided; 1/4 cup finely chopped shallots; 3 tablespoons Cognac or brandy; 1 fresh rosemary sprig; 1 teaspoon coarsely cracked black pepper; 1 cup ruby or tawny Port; Simple Homemade Beef Stock; 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil; 2 tablespoons black peppercorns, coarsely cracked in mortar with pestle or in resealable plastic bag with mallet

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Roast Beef Tenderloin with Port SauceAndrea Fazzari

Salting the beef 24 to 36 hours in advance enhances flavor and texture. For more on this technique, see the test-kitchen tip below.

TEST-KITCHEN TIP:

Salting in advance, also called dry brining, is often done to improve the texture of sinewy cuts of meat. But it also works magic on tender cuts, amping up flavor and juiciness. It sounds counterintuitive; for years the accepted wisdom was that pre-salting dries out meat. But the moderate salting you'll be doing here does the opposite. Water is first drawn out of the meat and then gets reabsorbed; this saltier, more flavorful moisture helps intensify taste. What's more, the exterior of the tenderloin dries out slightly, making it quicker to brown in the oven.

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