Daughter-of-the-wind is her name in ArabicāBent el-Rhiaāthe gorgeous island of Pantelleria sits seventy kilometers from Tunisia in the Egadian Archipelago. She is full of sea caves and strange, vaporous grottoes. She wears Neolithic ruins among her palms and oleander. And in the contrada, neighborhood, called Favarotta, we ate swordfishāthin steaks of it cut from the center of the just-caught fish, first rubbed with olive oil and then quickly roasted over a red-sparking grapevine fire. The fisherman/cook laid them over a cool tomato jam and we feasted. Too, we ate yellow-crumbed semolina bread roasted over the then quieter fire, and when its heat was nearly spent, we skewered figsāgreen ones and the first of the summerāonto grapevine twigs and held them near the fire until their juices were warmed and we ate them with the last sips of Pantelleriaās luscious moscato.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 6
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Construct a marinade with 1/2 cup of the olive oil, 1Ā 1/2 teaspoons salt, pepper, lemon juice, and massage it into the fish on both sides. Allow the fish to rest for 1 hour while you prepare a wood fire and an onion/tomato marmalade.
Step 2
Over a medium flame, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large sautĆ© pan and soften the garlic, taking care not to let it color. Add the onions. Soften them for 15 minutes or so, adding 1 tablespoon of the moscato each time the pan seems dryāabout 1/2 cup total. Add the tomatoes, salting them generously, and the remaining cup of moscato. Slowly cook the mixture, stirring it every few minutes until it reduces and thickens almost to a jamāabout 1/2 hour. Drain the plumped raisins and rinse the capers, adding both to the finished marmalade. Stir very well and set the marmalade aside.
Step 3
When the embers of the fire are red/white-hot, char the swordfish steaks 45 seconds to 1 minuteā30 seconds will be sufficient if your fire is hot enoughāon each side, removing them to a plate onto which some of the marmalade has been spread. When all the steaks are grilled, spoon a bit more marmalade over them. The warm, charred fish forms a lush fusion with the jam.