Name: Gnocchi Souffles
Yield: Makes 8 first-course servings
Ingredients: 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted; 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk; 3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into pieces; 2 ounces finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1 cup); 3/4 teaspoon salt; 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg; 3 large eggs; 1/2 cup heavy cream; 1/4 pound chilled Bra Tenero cheese (not Bra Duro), thinly sliced (preferably with a cheese plane); 10 grams fresh white truffle (1/3 ounces; optional); a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch plain tip; 8 (1/3-cup) individual shallow gratin dishes (3 oz); a truffle slicer or a Japanese Benriner (optional)

October is the beginning of white truffle season, but if you have trouble finding white truffles, don't despair — these soufflés are delicious without them. Much of the deep flavor of this dish comes from Bra Tenero cheese. We tried lots of alternatives, and American Münster was the closest, though it won't turn the same golden brown color.

Cooks' note:

·Gnocchi can be boiled and drained 1 day ahead and chilled in 1 layer (without crowding) in a shallow baking pan, covered with plastic wrap.

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