Homemade mayonnaise is so superior to store-bought that it is well worth the effort. Some people are intimidated by the thought of making a mayonnaise, but it is a skill easily mastered. A mayonnaise made with garlic, or aïoli, is one of my favorite sauces for almost everything. In the fall and winter months, garlic cloves may have a green sprouting germ in the center. Cut each clove in half lengthwise before pounding, and remove the bitter germ.
Plain mayonnaise is made this way, but without the garlic, and finished with a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar. It can be flavored in many ways: with the addition of fresh herbs such as parsley, basil, watercress, chervil, tarragon, or chives, chopped or pounded in a mortar; mustard; anchovies, boned and pounded or finely chopped; capers or pickles, rinsed and chopped; or finely chopped chile pepper.
