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Fried Cardoons

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Image may contain Cutlery Spoon Food Dish Meal and Bowl
Fried CardoonsDitte Isager

Only a culture that loves food could have come up with multiple techniques for cooking the cardoon—this thistle (a cousin of the artichoke that also tastes like one) with the texture of overgrown celery requires meticulous preparation. But the fact that Italians and Italian-Americans alike scour the markets for it come fall is evidence enough that it's worth it. A light coating and deep-frying really enhance the vegetable's subtle flavor.

Cooks' notes:

· Cardoons can be soaked and boiled 1 day ahead, then chilled, covered.
· Cardoons are best when fried just before serving but can be fried up to 4 hours ahead. Reheat on a baking sheet in a 350°F oven, about 15 minutes.

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