I have always loved leeks, but now they have a particularly romantic context in my life. The first time I met my (then future) husband, Chip, he cooked chicken with leeks, a dish that knocked me out. (I guess I should mention that he worked as a professional chef in New Orleans for ten years.) He blanched the leeks, so they were bright green and pliable, then wrapped them around a stuffed chicken breast. It was the most beautiful, seductive presentation. Since then, every time I cook with leeks I think of that dish—and him. Leeks have an interesting, subtle flavor that suggests asparagus or salsify (a root vegetable). A lot of Americans don’t know how to use them, and they tend to be pricey. But this simple bistro presentation shows that they are worth the splurge. This is the most basic French preparation for leeks, and one of the most delicious. It’s also the recipe that sold me on them forever.
Oven-braised Leeks: Alternatively, you can braise the leeks in a 350°F oven for 20–30 minutes in a buttered gratin dish (which, when cooled slightly and served atop a trivet, can go right to the table as a rustic-looking serving dish). Oven braising is actually easier: cooked in this manner, the leeks do not need to be turned. Simply prepare the leeks as described above (placing them cut side down), and don't forget to cover them with parchment.
