There’s a moment in late May when something in the air shifts. Fava beans and other spring treats are still plentiful and the evenings are still cool, but change is coming. The air at the farmers’ market is suddenly humid with the scent of basil. Small piles of cherry tomatoes, summer squash, and fresh beans show up on the folding tables beside mounds of fresh corn. It’s as if summer is testing the waters, seeing if we’re ready, because it can hardly hold back any longer. Before changing my spring menu to summer, I sample a few beans, checking for crunch. I peel back a cornhusk, bite into the cob—is the corn sweet yet? And finally, I pop a cherry tomato in my mouth to gauge its sugar. If they all pass the test, it’s time to make this First-of-the-Season Succotash Salad, dressed with a simple lemon vinaigrette. After waiting all year, what a joy it is to taste all these sunny flavors on one plate.
This pasta needs to be “made to order.” Although you can grind and toast your breadcrumbs, dice your vegetables, and clean the clams ahead of time, most of the work is at the last minute.<br/><br/>To clean the clams, soak them in cold water for 10 minutes, tossing them every few minutes or so. If the clams are very sandy, add a small handful of cornmeal or a splash of milk to the water, to encourage them to spit out the sand.<br/><br/>The pot you choose for this dish needs to be large enough to accommodate the clams and the noodles. If you don’t have one large enough, make this dish in two pots, splitting the ingredients accordingly.
