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Brown Butter and Fresh Rosemary Sauce

In its usual state—with cream and fat in a stable suspension—butter has a creamy taste. But this changes dramatically when it is heated quickly and starts to brown. The cream solids and fat separate; the particles caramelize and take on a nutty flavor as they toast. I like butter both ways, and I use either as a base for pasta sauce. Try making brown-butter sauces with other herbs and seasonings to use with the pastas suggested on the preceding page.

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