Here’s a wonderful kho that transforms an unusual-looking but exceptionally flavorful beef cut into elegant, tasty morsels. The cut, known as rough flank (a.k.a. beef nam or beef plate), is a favorite for stewing and other types of long cooking. You have probably eaten slices of it in restaurant bowls of pho, where it is typically identified as flank (though it is not the same as the flank steak used for stir-fries). It is usually displayed as upright rolls in Chinese and Vietnamese markets; when unrolled, it is long and narrow, with loosely textured meat separated by layers of tough membranes. If you are unfamiliar with the cut, it may appear strange at first, but I urge you to try it. Look for meaty pieces with a minimal amount of membrane. If the cuts are small, buy two pieces, select the choicest parts for this recipe, and save the trimmings for another use, such as pho (page 209). In this recipe, the beef is tied into small rolls that are simmered for hours. It absorbs the seasonings and softens, while still retaining a characteristic slight chewiness. Sliced into beautiful spirals, the meat is presented in a pool of dark, savory sauce. Each intense bite is beefy, bittersweet, salty, and gingery. Enjoy the dish with bowls of hot rice.
If when you cut the rolls, the outer membrane seems leathery and too tough to chew comfortably, remove it or try slicing thinner spirals.
To cook this dish in a clay pot, use a small (1 1/2-quart) Japanese donabe about 8 inches wide. For details on clay pot cooking, see page 108.
