Summer

My dad and I have spent a lifetime bonding over our love of blueberry pie. I knew I had mastered this recipe when I got his stamp of approval. When selecting blueberries, remember that they don’t sweeten after being picked. Generally, the bigger a blueberry is, the sweeter it is. Try to use big, round berries, without cracked skin, and be sure to pick the stems off the blueberries before using. Summertime is the best time for this pie because the berries are at their prime between June and early September. You can also try Blueberry Pie with the Cinnamon Sugar Crumb Topping (page 12) which won the 2011 National Pie Championships in its category. For extra indulgence add a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

My business partner and husband, Kelly, loves reminiscing about picking plump, juicy wild blackberries as a child with his grandma at their camp in the Adirondacks. Although Kelly loved eating the blackberries almost as quickly as he could pick them, he knew that if he managed to leave enough, his grandma would make his favorite summer treat—Blackberry Pie. Check out local farms or farmers’ markets for access to the sweetest blackberries available in your area. June is usually peak blackberry season in the southern states, while they peak in July up north. You can also try this pie with the Cinnamon Sugar Crumb Topping (page 12).

This rustic cake has the flavor and texture of an old-fashioned Eastern European dessert. Use either a nut grinder or food processor to grind pecans.

In traditional upside-down cake recipes, the fruit is first caramelized in a skillet. In our simplified version, the butter and sugar are creamed and spread into the cake pan; then the fruit is layered over the mixture and topped with cake batter.

Martha grows gooseberries, which inspired this pie, in her garden in Bedford, New York. Although their season is short (early summer), gooseberries are worth seeking out for their unique flavor. They can be very tart, so increase the sugar if you prefer your pie on the sweet side.

If you are fortunate enough to find wild blueberries while they are in season, by all means use them in this recipe; they are smaller than cultivated berries, so you may need an extra cup or two to make up the volume necessary for the pie.

We like this pie a little on the tart side; if you prefer a sweeter taste, increase the granulated sugar to 3/4 cup. To keep the dough from getting soggy, fill the pie shell just before you’re ready to cover with top crust.

This pie can be made with any berry or stone fruit, although we prefer sour cherries, peaches, or blueberries. If you can’t find fresh sour cherries, use two pounds of frozen pitted cherries instead; defrost and drain well before using.

If fresh lavender is not available, you can use another fresh herb, such as rosemary or thyme. Half of a vanilla bean also works well.

This artfully composed tart looks like an elegant tapestry, with carefully placed fruit “roses” in a prebaked tart shell. While it is easy to make, it’s essential to use a very sharp knife in order to cut the nectarine slices precisely. You can make the tart shell one day ahead; keep at room temperature, loosely covered.

This tart can be made with store-bought or homemade puff pastry. If using store-bought, you will need one 17 1/4-ounce package, which includes two sheets; divide the filling and the cherries in half, and bake two galettes instead of one.

This dessert works with a variety of fresh summer fruits; experiment with different combinations of stone fruits and berries, using the same proportions but adjusting the sugar accordingly.

Adjust the amount of granulated sugar you use in the filling according to how sweet you want the cobbler to be. If you cannot find fresh sour cherries, substitute 2 1/4 pounds pitted frozen sour cherries; thaw and drain before using. We baked ours in a fluted eighteen-by-twelve-inch dish, but any 1 1/2-quart baking dish will do—just adjust the length of the lattice strips to fit the dish.

This easy dessert can also be made in eight six-ounce ramekins—simply divide the filling and topping evenly among the dishes. The baking time will be the same.

Turnovers are always a favorite; their light Puff Pastry shells burst with fresh fruit. Our three fillings provide this classic dessert with a fresh twist: Five-spice powder lends its subtle aroma to pear, peach chunks blend with homemade raspberry jam, and sage plays off the sweetness of summer blueberries. All the fillings can be used interchangeably—simply prepare and fill the dough as instructed.

Fresh sour cherries usually appear in farmers’ markets in early July, but the season is short—about three weeks. If you can’t find fresh sour cherries, substitute two pounds of frozen ones; defrost before using. To make the strudel, you’ll need a large, clean cloth and a work surface that you can easily walk around, such as an island or your kitchen table.

There are never any leftovers of this flavorful pie at Mrs. Rowe’s Country Buffet. Because green tomatoes have such a short season, customers have many long months to look forward to this pie, with its robust spice and vinegar essences perfectly mingled with an underlying sweetness. The flavors unfold with every bite. Longtime regular customers know to get to the restaurant early enough to enjoy a slice. If the green tomato season slips by, try tomatillos instead. This pie also works as a side dish with pork chops or chicken.

If you have access to a bramble of blackberry bushes, guard it with your life. The price of blackberries makes it more than reasonable to pick your own, besides which nothing is quite so satisfying as picking your own berries. Perhaps it’s knowing where the food came from and taking part in the ancient practice of foraging. If you must use frozen berries, you should measure them while they’re still frozen, because they shrivel as they thaw. Also, it’s important to thaw and drain frozen berries before placing them in the pie shell, otherwise the pie will be watery. Use potato starch in this pie if you can. It gives the filling a clear, jewel-like color, and it has less flavor than cornstarch.

On Mother’s Day, 2008, Mrs. Rowe’s Country Buffet sold out of its fifty-six strawberry pies—it’s become such an integral part of the local tradition. You must use fresh berries for this pie. Frozen ones would make the pie too runny. For variety, you can use any kind of fresh berry; just make sure the berry and the flavor of gelatin complement one another.