Side

Canned chicken soup with a bit of oregano and lemon juice, accompanied by warm pita bread, starts the meal with the proper Greek flavors. Purchased baklava and strong coffee splashed with ouzo conclude the dinner in a spirited way.

This bread uses a yeast starter, which enriches its flavor and texture. Be sure to prepare the starter one day ahead. Humidity makes the crust crisper, so the recipe calls for spritzing the oven with water; simply use a standard spray bottle and tap water.

Greek yogurt, if you can find it, is incredibly thick and creamy and a delight to eat. It shows up in several guises on the Greek table — as a savory dip, in sauces, or for dessert. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr (includes draining)

Despite its name, this luau classic is actually a noodle dish (rice-free). At least there is chicken in it — stock as well as shredded chicken.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 15 min

There will be more pecan pesto than you need for the beans, but it keeps well and can also be used on pasta, as a sandwich spread, or in potato salad.

Greens are a direct part of African-Amercans' African heritage. Dishes using leafy greens abound in the cooking of the African Atlantic world. They turn up as a couve in Brazil, as a callaloo in the Caribbean, as sauce feuilles in French-speaking West Africa, and simply as greens in the southern United States. The African-American twist with greens is in the manner of cooking. We cook 'em long and slow —down to the proverbial "low gravy"— (but then again that was the way all vegetables were cooked in much of the past). The real innovation is in the eating: We savor not only the greens but also their cooking liquid or "pot likker," a rich source of vitamins and iron.

Ginger and garlic give these pea pods a hint of Asian flavor, but we think they're a good all-purpose side dish.