Seafood

Do not attempt this dish unless the fish is very fresh. Steaming is used only for fresh, delicately flavored fish.

Preserved lemons are a staple Moroccan condiment that can take up to 2 weeks to make in the traditional manner. Added to various foods, they impart a tangy brininess similar to that of olives but with the unique perfume of lemon. In most Moroccan dishes only the peel is used, the pulp being scraped away and discarded. However, the pulp is not wholly without value, making a delicious addition to Bloody Marys, and to salad dressings — wherever a salty-sour taste is welcome. The recipe below is an effort to approximate preserved lemons without having to plan a week or more in advance.

To make the nori rolls in this recipe we used a bamboo sushi mat, available at Asian markets and some specialty shops. It's possible to make the rolls using a double thickness of aluminum foil instead of a sushi mat, but using a mat makes the process much easier.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Serve this with crusty bread to soak up the delicious olive oil.

A thin but flavorful low-fat sauce that serves as a dipping sauce and marinade.

What northerners call stuffing, southerners call dressing. Oysters and eggplant are a classic Louisiana combination, and the bite of cayenne adds to the authenticity. Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

This recipe comes from my mom, Loretta Anderson.

Salmon and cod also work well.

For the start or close of a millennium (or almost any other significant occasion), this is an opulent but fuss-free combination. Purchase the crabs from a busy fishmonger to ensure absolute freshness. Inexpensive caviar (which is often dyed) can turn the dipping sauce gray; invest a little more if you can. Champagne — not too dry — is naturally the beverage of choice.

The agrodolce (tart-and-sweet) flavors of vinegar and raisins used in marinating the fish are typical of Jewish-Italian cooking.

This is based on a classic Italian dish, vitello tonnato, in which chilled slices of veal are topped with a puree of tuna, anchovies, capers, and lemon. Here, the veal is replaced by sliced turkey, and the sauce can be made up to a day ahead. (Buy good-quality turkey breast from the deli section of the market.)

Can be prepared in 45 minutes of less.