Seafood

Bacalao (salt cod) has been popular in Spain for centuries, especially among the Basques (they brought it back from whaling voyages to northern Europe) and the Catalans (the southern French shared it with them). Although Spain is surrounded by water, in days gone by fresh fish never made it to the interior and sometimes wasn't available - or any good - on the coasts. So, in this strict Catholic country where meat and poultry were not allowed on Fridays, or during Lent, Bacalao became an integral part of the staple diet. Bradade - salt cod pureed with potatoes, olive oil and sometimes milk - is a specialty of France's Provence area that has made its way into the Catalan culinary repertoire as Brandada. If you've never tried salt cod, this is a good initiation. Start soaking the dried fish a day ahead.

Short of time? Then skip the broiling, and serve the crostini cold.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This dish is named after the copper Portuguese cooking vessel, the cataplana, in which it is traditionally cooked.

The chef serves this salmon over a salad of romaine hearts, artichoke hearts, radishes, green beans, cucumber, potatoes, celery, scallion, olives, tomatoes, and basil with a dressing of lime juice and olive oil.

Here's another terrific creation from Hotel Hana-Maui in Maui, Hawaii.

Asian flavors accent this do-ahead appetizer.

This version of the French classic has only raw vegetables.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

A delicious twist on clam chowder, this hearty winter soup is full of tender scallops and smoky bacon.

Traditionally used for poaching seafood, court bouillon (French for "quick broth") is an aromatic stock made with vegetables and herbs. Wine, lemon juice, or vinegar is often added. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Green papaya salad in all its regional variations - often flavored with pork, beef, or shrimp (as below)-is hugely popular throughout Southeast Asia. The dish is made from unripe Southeast Asian papayas, which have firm white flesh and white seeds. The current popularity of Vietnamese and Thai food in the United States has increased these papayas' availability, although it is still generally limited to Asian markets. Such papayas can grow to the size of cantaloupes or larger and range in shape from oval to round. Look for rock-hard dark green fruit without a trace of pink or yellow blush. If you don't see any, ask (some shopkeepers do not display them). Those who can't find the right kind of papaya might skip the salad or substitute seedless (European) cucumbers despite the repetition with the main course. Those who can find Southeast Asian green papayas will be treated to a salad that our food editors found irresistible.