Seafood

I once owned a summer cottage on Sawyer's Island in Maine. The little cove in front of the house, too small to be named on navigational charts, was called Clam Cove by the locals. I never did any clamming — fishing was my thing — but I have a vivid memory of the muddy flats at low tide, feeling the soft-shell clams under my feet and seeing their tiny sprays coming out of the mud as they burrowed down to get out of my way. Soft-shell clams have two oval shells, about two to three inches long, that gape along the edges. Their most prominent feature is a siphon, about a quarter of the length of the shell, which sticks out of the clam. Whole soft-shell clams are often referred to as "steamers," because that is the way they are most often prepared. When salty old-timers refer to "clams," soft-shells are what they mean. Shucked raw, soft-shell clams may be called "fryers" or "frying clams." Frying clams make a superb chowder, but they are very expensive because of the labor involved in shucking them. I prefer to steam whole soft-shell clams for chowder. That way, I save a few dollars and get a fantastic broth in the process. The flavor of steamer broth is sweeter and more subtle and round than the pungent broth quahogs (hard-shell clams) yield. The chowder made from steamers may have a little less strength up front, but it is equal to quahog chowder in deep lingering flavor. To celebrate the difference, I use salt pork instead of bacon in steamer chowder, I don't add garlic, and I use fewer herbs and seasoning, letting the luscious little clams provide most of the flavor. And they always rise to the occasion, producing one of the most delicious chowders imaginable.

Active time: 35 min Start to finish: 35 min

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

At Aubergine, one of London's most stylish restaurants, this soup is whimsically called a "capuccino." Chef Gordon Ramsey tops it with a rich broth that has been foamed with butter. This simpler version (minus the frothy "cap") is equally delicious.

The mild spice paste is also great used as a base for chicken and shrimp curries.

The fish cooks in a delicious sauce of onions, parsley, anchovies, garlic, tomatoes and white wine. A large crouton is served alongside to soak up all the good flavors. To round out the menu, offer roasted artichokes, and to finish, a seasonal fruit compote with warm sabayon.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.