Potato

Jody Adams makes this dish in a 14-inch cast-iron skillet with a lid, but since that size is rare in home kitchens, we've adapted the recipe for a roasting pan.

The Provençal specialty known as brandade is typically made with salt cod. Serve this vegetarian version as a main course topped with a poached egg. It's also great as a side dish or spread on toasts for an appetizer.

Baking the potatoes first gives them a nice creamy texture. The potency of the mustard will diminish as the potatoes are being stirred over the burner; so if you really want to feel the burn, add an extra teaspoon or so of mustard just before serving.

It's hard to believe that there's only one tablespoon of butter in this rich-tasting side dish.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

A soup this hearty calls for wedges of crusty country bread alongside. For the salad, arrange sliced pickled beets on romaine leaves and sprinkle generously with fresh dill. Apple strudel is just right to finish up.

Northern Greeks, particularly those from Salonika, eat a lot of clams and mussels, usually as mezedes. Here's an easy-to-make dish from Greece's "second city" Cappetino.

This sweet-and-spicy dish is delicious with tan-skinned sweet potatoes or the sweeter red-skinned ones (also known as yams).

Russet potatoes are the classic choice for baking but also are best for frying. Because they’re high in starch and low in moisture, they make crisper fries. And don’t refrigerate potatoes for frying; the sugars that accumulate cause very rapid browning and the fries can turn bitter. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 30 min

Chilaquiles, the ever-popular Mexican casserole, was created to use up stale tortillas. Made with a good sauce, the tortillas come back to life, take on all the flavors, and provide a wonderful textural contrast. Although chilaquiles are usually prepared casserole style, I have seen them made to order with scrambled eggs and chorizo. I particularly enjoy chilaquiles as a brunch item served with margaritas, chilled Mexican beer, or a hearty sangria.

Papas con Fideos This recipe is from Delia Marcus, who was taught how to feed her Gypsy husband properly by her mother-in-law. Marcus founded flamencarte.com, a referral service for flamenco-oriented visits to Seville.

Serve with: Sourdough toast and a mixed green salad. Dessert: Oversize brownies.

Suzelle Kasaian writes: "Tahoe Joe's here in Fresno may be missing Lake Tahoe's mountain views, but the lodge-style restaurant has plenty of good food. I'd like to get the recipe for the mashed potatoes referred to on the menu as 'mountain mashers.'"