Potato

This gratin is particularly welcomed on the holiday table by those who love sweet potatoes and hate marshmallows. The cream and butter make this so delicious your guests will lie in bed and remember it happily all year long. You only serve this kind of dish once in a very long while, so the caloric intake is moderated. If your meal has too many sweet potatoes, see the variation for turnip gratin.

Francoise preferred not to share her specific recipe with me, but she gave me enough hints so that I could make this version of roestis, (which means twice cooked in the Jura dialect) which closely resembles the delicious dish I had at La Grangette. Try this with thick slices of gently smoked ham and a white Arbois, from the Jura, or another buttery white wine.

(Adapted from The Keeper's House) Charmoula is a Moroccan fish marinade traditionally made with tomatoes, lemon, paprika, garlic, cumin, and cilantro.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. If fingerling potatoes are not available, small red potatoes, halved, may be substituted.

Don't try beating potatoes in a food processor: the fast spinning motion will develop the gluten in the potatoes and turn them into a gray, sticky mass. You can use an electric beater if your potatoes are mealy — russet or Idahos.

(Bacon and Root Vegetable Stew)

This soup has the classic flavors of a baked potato topped with sour cream and chives. It would be perfect as a starter to a meal of steak and salad, or terrific teamed with crusty bread for lunch.

You'll notice that there's no wine or other braising liquid called for here. The veal cooks in the succulent juices exuded by the tomatoes and onions.

Serve this zesty Cajun-flavored hash with a big salad (like a romaine mix with herb croutons) and a New Orleans-inspired dessert such as broiled bananas with butter pecan ice cream.

Pommes de Terre Chateaubriand Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 45 min

Active time: 1 3/4 hr Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

Chayote (often mistaken for a squash) is a fruit with a cucumber-like taste and texture. The sweet-spicy balance of this appetizer goes well with Sauvignon Blanc or beer.

If you can't find fresh fava beans, use edamame (fresh green soybeans in the pod). You'll need to buy two pounds to yield the 3/4 cup for the recipe; do not peel. What to drink: Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Spanish white made from Albariño grapes.

Le Cirque's elegant take on roast chicken.