Pancetta

If you choose to omit the sweetbreads, simply begin the recipe by sautéing the pancetta. (In that case, you may also want to purchase a larger veal or pork loin — going up to a 5-pound veal loin or a 6-pound pork loin.)

Great with veal or roast chicken.

The plump ravioli called pansoti ("little bellies"), a Ligurian specialty, are often dressed with a walnut sauce. We strayed from tradition a bit and tucked the walnuts into the filling instead. Be sure to buy pancetta that's well marbled: If it's too lean, it won't render enough fat to flavor the filling. Also, brown the onions well — the caramelization lends a depth and richness that's essential to this dish.

Sauté any remaining greens from the beets to serve on the side with the lentils with port-glazed shallots . A Moulin-à-Vent is the wine of choice; purchased cheesecake topped with cherries marinated in brandy and sugar is a scrumptious finale.

Turkey Stuffed with Chestnuts and Prunes This is definitely my favorite way to do turkey because it never comes out dry. My wife, Susi, is always upset when she sees me prepare this abstract-looking sausage of a gobbler, but she's happy when she eats the tender and succulent meat and stuffing, all encased in a crisp and well-seasoned skin. The advantages of this method are twofold: it's in the oven only for an hour, freeing up cooking space for other dishes; and carving is simplicity itself — just cut straight through, like a regular roast.

An easy and innovative first-course salad.

This is a lovely first course or side dish.

Serve this hearty stew over noodles. Market Tip: It's best to buy pork shoulder from the Boston butt: This less-tender but well-marbled cut produces succulent results when braised.

Fresh herbs and pancetta (Italian cured bacon) blanket the pork before it goes into the oven. Ask the butcher to tie the two loins to hold their shape. Begin marinating the meat one day before serving. What to drink: Open a few bottles of spicy Zinfandel or hearty Bordeaux to place on the buffet table.

What to drink: Delicate blanc de blancs Champagne pairs well with these hors d'oeuvres.

Using the fresh-tasting canned diced tomatoes eliminates the chopping step. Serve with: Arugula and radicchio salad.

In Alba, and throughout the region of Piedmont, a pumpkin-like squash called zucca is found on many fall menus. Butternut squash substitutes nicely here.

Red onions, sweetest in the summer, are caramelized and combined with pancetta to top toasted country-style bread for a sensational starter.

If you can't find pancetta, you can substitute regular bacon.