Lentil

The test kitchen used wonton wrappers instead of homemade pasta to simplify this.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Contrary to what their name suggests, the color of "red" lentils is actually closer to orange. You can also use brown lentils, but the results will be different. Red lentils fall apart as they cook, creating a creamier base, whereas brown ones hold their shape (and take a little longer to cook).

For a special touch, serve a fresh tomato chutney (recipe follows) alongside.

Garam means "hot" and masala means "spiced," though the mixture is not chili-hot. Instead the classic garam masala spices called for in the recipe-cardamom, cloves, black pepper, cumin, and cinnamon-are warmly aromatic.

Common brown lentils may be substituted for the lentils of Le Puy but they cook much more quickly- in about twelve minutes initially. In this recipe the carrots may be cooked separately in boiling salted water until tender for a brighter color. Lentilles du Puy (French green lentils) are available at specialty foods shops and some natural foods stores.

Packaged tabbouleh mixes, available at most supermarkets, are a good source of the fine bulgur recommended in this recipe, but don't use the accompanying seasoning pouch if one is included. Bulgur - wheat berries that have been steamed, dried, and then cracked - is also found in natural foods stores. Although this salad is wonderful with standard supermarket lentils and a coarser grind of bulgur, the French lentils and fine bulgur produce a delicate, more refined version.

We adapted this recipe from one by Terrance Brennan, the chef-owner of Picholine restaurant in New York. He tops the soup with strips of smoked salmon.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 45 min

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 1 hr