Chile

Liven up chicken pibil with these pretty-in-pink, spicy-as heck pickled onions.

If you'd like to make the jalapeño-lime butter one day ahead, use a broiler or gas burner to char the chiles and save the grill prep for the corn.

This hot and tangy Thai version of coleslaw is one of those dishes that I don't know if they really serve in Thailand but it certainly seems they should. I like it more than traditional coleslaw, and it seems to better suit our modern-day taste for lighter dishes and for the forthright flavors of Asian ingredients. I serve this salad with grilled meats — it's especially great with spare ribs.

The salsa should be very fresh. You can prepare the ingredients ahead of time, just do not combine them more than 2 hours prior to serving. Also, never spoon the salsa atop the tuna until just before serving.

(Charred Chili Salsa) In Thailand, vegetables are grilled in a grilling rack over an open flame. The method for charring described in this salsa recipe uses a dry-frying technique; you can, of course, char the vegetables over a grill instead. This northern Thai salsa is quite hot: The main ingredient is traditionally num, a long, medium-hot, pale yellow chili very similar to the banana chilies available in North American. If you want a milder taste, substitute Hungarian wax chilies for some or all of the banana chilies called for in the recipe. Remember that this sauce is meant to accompany sticky rice, not to be eaten on its own, so its flavors are punchy, with a distinct smokiness. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

(Salt Cod Fritters)

Chipotle chilies are the secret to this sassy cocktail sauce.

This recipe was created to accompany Garlic Dijon Skirt Steak. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This salsa is used to flavor Frijoles Borrachos , as an ingredient in Piquant Crab on Jícama Wedges , and to accompany Chorizo and Potato Empanaditas and tacos. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 4 hr

I first created this recipe at Routh Street Cafe in 1984. I've since had it on menus at five different restaurants in some form or another. It's also delicious when spread with a mixture of one part jalapeño jelly and three parts cream cheese whipped together. It's also best served warm.