Italian

(Zuccotto) During the Renaissance, Italian cardinals wore small skullcaps, called zucchetti, presumably from the word zucca, meaning "squash" (the caps resembled little pumpkins). This dessert looks very much like those caps from long ago, and so the name refers to them. Many fillings can be used, but the nuts and chocolate here come closest to the original recipe, which is a Florentine classic.

This gelato, named after Bernardo Buontalenti, a sixteenth-century Florentine who may have been one of the world's original ice-cream makers, is made with any number of flavorings. The "secret" ingredient is usually a liqueur (such as Di Saronno Amaretto). A delicious alternative would be a pinch of mixed spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. This foamy custard is a traditional Italian dessert. Delicious with no accompaniment at all, it's even better spooned over fresh fruit or served with biscotti. Be sure to have anything else you plan to serve with the zabaglione ready to go, as it really is best eaten just seconds off the stove.

Fresh Ricotta, Anchovy, and Oregano Toasts Crostini refers to a whole family of antipasti based on thin slices of bread, toasted, sometimes brushed with olive oil, and covered with any number of savory toppings. If you can, buy fresh anchovies and marinate them yourself or buy them already marinated from an Italian or Hispanic deli (where they are known as alici marinati or boquerones respectively; see note below).

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Fried artichokes are usually served whole in Rome as a primo piatto, but we found that cutting them into wedges before frying made them a finger-friendly and addictive hors d'oeuvre. Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 1 hr

This is another Italian version of steak, popular with those who like the flavor of tomatoes.

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min

Fontina cheese and caponata (a chunky Sicilian eggplant relish available in cans or jars at most supermarkets) make a substantial sandwich. Have pasta salad as well; grapes and assorted bakery cookies complete the dinner. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

For this recipe you will need 25 fluted molds, 2 1/2 inches across the top, 1 1/2 inches across the bottom, and 1 inch deep. Molds are available at some cookware shops and by mail order from Bridge Kitchenware, (800) 274-3435 or (212) 838-1901.

The plump ravioli called pansoti ("little bellies"), a Ligurian specialty, are often dressed with a walnut sauce. We strayed from tradition a bit and tucked the walnuts into the filling instead. Be sure to buy pancetta that's well marbled: If it's too lean, it won't render enough fat to flavor the filling. Also, brown the onions well — the caramelization lends a depth and richness that's essential to this dish.

This is one of the real classics of [Friuli-Venezia Giulia] cuisine. You will find it wherever you travel, especially in springtime when wild herbs sprout in fragrant profusion all over la terra fortunata. The key here is to use as large a variety of herbs, grasses, and greens as you can locate. It is traditional that there be at least five different types. Among the most famous are silene, hops, melissa, mint, verbena, basil, marjoram, sage, parsley, spinach (just a little), fennel leaves, Swiss chard, zucchini (courgette) flowers, wild fennel, beet greens, chervil, sorrel, and celery leaves. This frittata is served piping hot, tepid, or cold. As always, it should be covered if allowed to cool, and cut into wedges before serving.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

When showing me his straightforward technique for making this traditional dessert, chef Cesare Giaccone (at Da Cesare restaurant in Albaretto della Torre) credited a parish priest in a nearby hamlet for giving him new understanding of zabaglione. Whether that meant pointers or inspiration was hard to tell, but knowing that this ambrosia has such a godly source allows me to enjoy it even more!

This softly set ice cream isn't churned, so you don't need an ice cream maker.