French

Along with croissants and pains au chocolat, these buns are ubiquitous in the morning bread basket that arrives after you order your express or café crème in Paris. It's the pastry cream that makes them unique. We used our favorite brioche recipe (by Sally Darr, a former gourmet editor) as the base.

This salad-in-a-sandwich can also be made with individual sourdough rolls. There can be many variations on this theme, so use your imagination. You might replace the tuna with grilled leftover chicken or tuck in a bit of salami, mortadella or roast beef. The sandwich is best if made at least two hours before serving.

In France, an entrecôte (literally, "between the ribs") is the most tender cut of beef; New York strips are a close equivalent. For this recipe, the steaks are quickly seared, then topped with a lighter, contemporary version of the classic sauce bordelaise made with beef marrow and red wine. What to drink: Château Poujeaux 1999 "Moulis."

The recipe calls for a pastry bag, but the meringue disks can also be formed with a spatula. If made ahead, the meringue will soften slightly from contact with the buttercream.

This is Paul Bocuse's famous thick pumpkin soup, from France, served inside the pumpkin shell.

This luscious frozen dessert can be made without an ice cram maker. Begin preparing the recipe at least one day ahead.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

(TARTELETTES AUX NOIX)

Start preparing the custards one day before you plan to serve them.

Known as bifteck haché in France, this dish would go well with potatoes au gratin from the freezer case and buttered, lightly steamed spinach. End with chocolate mousse.

(Epaule d'Agneau Braisée au Thym, Sauté de Carottes et Fenouil) Have a butcher cut the lamb shoulder-blade chops about two inches thick for this dish.

Most people are familiar with confit duck legs, but the French confit the gizzards, too. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min

A simple drink for any kind of celebration.

Tartines de Caviar à la Crème Aigre Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 25 min

A spoonful of this classic compound butter, known as maître d'hôtel butter, makes an instant sauce for anything from grilled steak to sautéed chicken to steamed vegetables. It can also be stirred into soups and stews.